Tag: Austria

  • Central Europe Snapshot

    Oops! I took a slight detour from my blogging schedule to post about London before wrapping up our Central Europe trip coverage. So I’ll squeeze this snapshot in here now, and then get back to a few London things. And I thought about separating this summary into separate posts for each country, but I’m going to combine it with the intent of catching up on my blogging to-do list and just see how it turns out.

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    Best Moment

    Chris and I just discussed this category, trying to identify a stand-out Best Moment moment, but we agreed that we loved the whole trip. Oktoberfest in Munich and the Brews and Views tour in Prague come to mind as our favorite general activities, and if we had to pinpoint one single moment, it would be when we were standing on top of the Karwendel mountains in Mittenwald. We had the entire mountaintop area to ourselves, and it was quite peaceful.

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    Worst Moment

    As I remember it, this trip went really well and I don’t know if we had a true worst moment. Sure, I wish we had better weather in Munich, and we both ended up coming down with what turned out to be a pretty bad cold on the last day, but other than that we had an incredibly smooth trip.

    Funniest Moment

    A brief encounter at the Westbahnhof U-Bahn station provided us with a quote that we used frequently for the rest of the trip: “I don’t know…blah blah blah.”

    A guy approached us as we were exiting the underground and seemed lost or confused. He had a strong accent and I didn’t quite catch what he was asking, but I thought I heard him say “where” and “metro.” So I responded cheerfully, “Oh! Yes, it’s down the stairs over there,” and gestured politely toward the entrance to the U-Bahn. He repeated something, but I still couldn’t understand as I wasn’t even sure what language he was speaking, so I gently said, “I don’t know. I’m so sorry I can’t help.” Then all of a sudden in much clearer English he sharply said, “I asked you a simple question and you say (and he switched to a very sarcastic mocking tone), ‘I don’t know…blah blah blah.’” And then he angrily stormed off! I was stunned.

    Chris explained to me after that he thought the guy was trying to ask us for our train ticket so he could reuse it. But for the rest of the trip, whenever Chris and I asked each other a question, we responded with (in a mocking tone), “I don’t know…blah blah blah.” It cracked us up for days!

    We also giggled at this menu with “rabbit-shit” on it, this “soup of the day” board, and every time we saw an exit sign in German. What can I say? We’re easily entertained.

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    Best Meal

    This is always tough category, especially since we ate our way through the delicious cuisines of four countries! This was my first time trying schnitzel, real apple streudel, krapfen, and Sacher Torte, and they were all amazing. I also loved the goulash we ate in Germany. I could easily repeat this same itinerary just for the cuisine alone!

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    Something We Learned

    I learned that Oktoberfest isn’t necessarily the drunken debauchery mess that I thought it would be. I mean, it certainly can be if that’s what you’re looking for, but it doesn’t have to be if that’s not your scene. Before we arrived in Munich, I sort of pictured Oktoberfest to be this massively overwhelming crowded situation descending upon the city to the point where I wouldn’t have any personal space. I read advice online to wear shoes that I don’t mind getting soaked with beer. I didn’t want any of my shoes soaked with beer!

    Now that we’ve attended Oktoberfest, on opening weekend no less, I know that there are many flavors of Oktoberfest and you can make it anything you want from family-friendly fun, to a chill people-watching experience, to an all-out party-’til-you-pass-out rager. My shoes ended up being beer-free. And now I also understand that it’s about more than just beer –  it’s a celebration of food, music, culture, and tradition. I loved hanging out in the beer tents and singing along with the traditional songs and even some American songs.

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    We’re Thankful We Packed

    A wide variety of outfits for all different kinds of weather. We did not expect it to be over 90 degrees the entire time we were in Austria, but thankfully we packed some short-sleeve shirts and shorts. I’m also thankful to have purchased a dirndl ahead of time! It was so easy to have it on-hand already instead of spending time shopping for one. And I must have looked fairly festive – a group of tourists at Hofbräuhaus requested a photo with me!

    We Didn’t Need To Bring

    I can’t remember anything extraneous from our packing efforts. We packed pretty light, and I think we managed to wear everything we brought in our one carry-on each.

    Trip Regrets

    I wish we could have seen more of Munich, especially on a day when it wasn’t pouring rain. But we were busy Oktoberfesting, so we didn’t really have time to see much beyond the highlights.

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    Reasons To Go Back

    I’d love to see these countries during the holiday season to see the Christmas markets!

    Favorite Photos

    Again, really tough to narrow it down to a few favorites for four countries, but I picked one from each that I love!

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  • A Little Do-Re-Me in Salzburg

    A Little Do-Re-Me in Salzburg

    Once Chris and I decided to visit Austria, there was no question that we would stop for a stay in Salzburg. I had heard such great things about the Austrian city and all of its charms, and of course I wanted to see some of the spots and landmarks from The Sound of Music. Salzburg is a small city, but there is a lot to see and do.

    In my travel planning, I read differing opinions about how much time to spend in Salzburg. A lot of people said you can cover the city in one day, and others recommended spending as much time there as possible. We decided on three nights with two whole days, and that turned out to be the perfect length for us to see the major sites at a leisurely pace, to spend ample time sitting at outdoor cafes, and to squeeze in one viewing of The Sound of Music in our hotel room. If I had a do-over I might add one additional day to see the surrounding areas of Salzburg, but we covered Old Town well in two days.

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    I wish I had taken more photos of our hotel, Hotel Goldgasse, but we arrived after sunset and our stuff was all over the place before I had a chance to photograph everything. The room was one of the cutest and comfiest I’ve ever stayed in thanks to some thoughtful amenities and fun artwork. In addition to fluffy robes, artisan teas, a full-size umbrella, and a Nespresso machine, you can watch The Sound of Music any time and as many times as you want! They have an on-demand channel dedicated to it in both English and German languages.

    The much-warmer-than-usual weather pattern continued (an alternate title for this post might have been “Sweaty in Salzburg”) so the only downside to our hotel, common to many European hotels, was the lack of air-conditioning. We slept with all of the windows open every night, but unfortunately that meant we had to deal with quite a few gnats in the room. Other than that minor inconvenience, I would highly recommend Hotel Goldgasse especially for the fantastic location, right in the heart of the city.

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    On Day One, we strolled around Old Town and its various streets including the famous Getreidegasse, enjoying the shops and people-watching. Always ones to be interested in the local spirits, we popped into the Sporer Likör- & Punschmanufaktur for a fun schnapps tasting – we really liked the pear and the apricot.
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    And of course we poked around Residenzplatz and Mozartplatz. We listened to the chimes of the glockenspiel, and we found Mozart’s birthplace. We listened to a couple of outdoor music performances during our visit and I have to tell you, being serenaded by violin while strolling through Salzburg felt pretty magical.

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    We dedicated the afternoon to one of the city’s must-dos that I, too, recommend: taking the funicular up to Hohensalzburg fortress. It’s one of the largest castles in Europe, so plan to spend a good portion of the day there if you want to explore all of the nooks, crannies, and exhibits. The fortress provides a beautiful view of the city and river below, and as a bonus there is a little marionette museum tucked in one of the passageways. Don’t miss it! I found it delightfully creepy.

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    Compared to so many others who visit Salzburg, I probably fall into the “casual fan” category when it comes to The Sound of Music. I do really like the movie, but before this trip I think I had only seen it maybe twice (only once all the way through). Thanks to our amazing hotel with an on-demand channel dedicated to the film, we watched it on our second night in Salzburg for inspiration. I had already planned on visiting some of the major filming locations, but it was fun to see some of the other parts of town in which we had explored that day.

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    After spending one day in Altstadt, or Old Town, we spent the next day crossing over the Salzach river to explore that side of the city including spending time in the famous Mirabell Gardens. And by “spending time in the gardens” I mean I sang all the songs in every section of the park while Chris patiently waited for me to get it out of my system.

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    With all of the history, culture, and art that Salzburg has to offer, I have to confess that our favorite part was actually the cafe life which, if you think about it, is history, culture, and an art form combined, so maybe I don’t have to feel guilty after all! We loved sitting in the outdoor cafes with drinks and decadent sweets, and simply enjoying the weather and the people-watching. The cake shown below is a Mozartkugel cake, and it’s one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. I have dreamy little heart-eyes just thinking about it.

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    And just like that, the sun set on our time in Salzburg and in Austria. The next day we picked up a rental car and hit the road for Germany – those posts are up next!

  • An Afternoon in Melk, Austria

    An Afternoon in Melk, Austria

    I can’t remember where I first saw it, but pictures of 11th century Stift Melk, or Melk Abbey, sold me on a visit to this sweet Austrian town along the Danube. Knowing that I had to see the abbey for myself, we planned Melk as a stop on the way from Vienna to Salzburg. It was a perfect way to break up the train ride, and an easy stop for lunch.

    As soon as we hopped off the train and headed through the darling neighborhood streets situated below the abbey up on the hill, I knew we were in for a treat.

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    We enjoyed a delicious lunch at Rathauskeller Melk before exploring the main parts of the town. Like our time in Vienna and Bratislava, we were gifted with a gorgeous day and the clearest blue skies. (Side note: it was over 90-degrees and we didn’t exactly pack for super warm weather, so I will forever associate Melk with being super hot and sweaty. This is also the reason there is not one single picture of us.)

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    It didn’t take long before I was lured up to the abbey. We hiked up the hill’s many steps and did a self-tour of the grounds before heading inside.
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    I pretty much went overboard taking photos in and around the abbey. The inside was stuffed to the gills with several tour groups, but somehow we managed to have most of the courtyard to ourselves. We ended up shimmying past the museum mobs so we could get to the other parts of the abbey and experience those rooms in peace, too.

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    There are plenty of signs inside asking people not to take photos, but there are a few spots in which photos are allowed. I think/hope this staircase is one of them.

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    Sections of the abbey were under repair so there was quite a bit of scaffolding, but we managed to photograph around it for the most part. (If I was hoping to find only one scaffolding-free building/monument on this trip, it was the Neuschwanstein castle in Germany…more about that in a future post!)

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    As if the fascinating history, ornate Baroque details, and beautiful frescoes aren’t enough, the abbey offers a wonderful view of the town below. Don’t the buildings look like little dollhouses from here?

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    So…I’m generally a rule-follower, especially while traveling (I don’t want to be on an episode of Locked Up Abroad), but I broke a rule while visiting the church. I took a photo where a sign clearly indicated no photos allowed. I refrained from taking photos in the gorgeous library, but I simply couldn’t help myself in the church. I was super quick, stood only behind the pews, was quiet as a mouse, no clicks or beeps, no squeak of my shoe, and no flash, so I hope I can be forgiven.

    As a former professional wedding photographer, I’ve seen a lot of churches, but I officially declare this one the most beautiful I’ve seen so far. And my iPhone photo doesn’t even do it justice – it took my breath away! I could have gazed at the massive frescoes and gold leaf for days. The staircase between the library and the church was also stunning.

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    Suffice it to say, Melk certainly turned out to be one of my favorite stops out of the whole trip. I highly recommend a visit as either a day trip from Vienna or as a stop in between other cities. And if you happen to very respectfully sneak a quick picture in the church, I promise not to judge you.

  • Vienna, Austria: A Very Good Place To Start

    Vienna, Austria: A Very Good Place To Start

    Chris and I returned from Europe three weeks ago and I have yet to post anything from the trip here! I finally found a moment this weekend to start to catch up on things, and I’m starting with the very beginning (sing it with me: “…a very good place to staaart“) of our two week European trip with Vienna, Austria.

    This whole trip all started with Chris’s inkling of attending Oktoberfest, and before I knew it, I had added three other countries to a two-week itinerary. I wonder how many European trips get planned like that? With everything in such close proximity it’s so easy to say, “Well, if we’re in Munich, we’re so close to Austria…and ooo, Prague isn’t far away either. It’s a direct flight to Vienna, so we we might as well sneak over to Slovakia…” and so on.

    We arrived in Vienna just about as jet-lagged as we have ever been, but thankfully we found that our hotel was situated right across the street from one of the most famous cafés in the city, Café Central. Sure it’s a little touristy, but a traditional Viennese iced coffee was the perfect introduction to Austria in my opinion! (And thus began our two-week long affair with the café life.)

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    Despite my love for music and baroque architecture, I confess I didn’t fall head-over-heels for Vienna the way I did with a few other cities on our two-week European trek. Maybe it’s because we picked Vienna simply for the direct flight from Washington-Dulles, or maybe it has to do with our jet-lagged state in which we wandered the streets. We still had a wonderful time exploring the capital though, and if I’m able to return for a longer period of time someday, perhaps Vienna will end up wooing me after all.

    I did love all of the statues and ornate details on nearly every corner. And we had gorgeous albeit hot weather.

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    Knowing full well we would be completely exhausted and all too tempted to curl up for a nap in our hotel, I scheduled a walking tour for the first day as the perfect way to beat our jet lag. And what better tour to book for two photographers than a Polaroid Photo Tour where we see the sights with instant cameras in-hand.

    Formerly known as the PolaWalk, the tour gave us an instant (pun intended!) feel for the city by introducing us to major sites such as Karlskirche, Staatsoper, Hofburg and Heldenplatz, and also a few nooks and crannies we might not have noticed on our own.

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    For 55 euro, I wandered around with a vintage Polaroid instant camera and a pack of The Impossible Project instant film, taking in the scenery and composing instant memories. Chris opted for the no-camera ticket (25 euro) so that he could document Vienna with his own SLR. It’s a nice option for anyone who simply wants to join the tour sans Polaroid.

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    I actually ended up using my SLR, my point-and-shoot, and my iPhone in addition to the Polaroid camera like a crazy person. I’m sort of a documentation nut, but I’m just mentioning this to point out you are welcome to use cameras on the tour other than the Polaroid.

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    Another confession: we didn’t make it to the end of the tour! I didn’t even shoot all eight of my instant films. Not only were we still on Virginia time, it was over 90-degrees that day and it was too hard to stay hydrated. Chris and I hung in there for a good two hours, but the tour ran a bit longer than that and we simply couldn’t hang. But we thoroughly enjoyed our time with our sweet guide, Teresa, and the rest of the group, and I love my little collection of Polaroid snaps (which I lazily photographed for you with my iPhone, above).

    We ended our day with nothing other than wienerschnitzel, local beers, and apple strudel at Augustiner Keller before crashing into our hotel bed at about 8pm.

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    And that was Vienna! We stayed two nights, but we dedicated the next day to seeing Bratislava, Slovakia (up next on the blog). Before leaving Vienna though, I couldn’t say no to another visit to Café Central to try Sacher Torte for the first time. Verdict: amazing.

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    Stay tuned for a barrage of posts as I cover our foray into Slovakia, more of Austria, then Germany, and finally Czech Republic!