Tag: breweries

  • Lares Adventure – Day 5: Urubamba

    Lares Adventure – Day 5: Urubamba

    So far on the Lares Adventure, our main method of seeing the Sacred Valley was via hiking and from the window of the occasional van ride, so on Day Five, Chris and I were excited to add mountain biking to the mix. At the beginning of the trek when we saw “mountain bike along the Urubamba river and end up at a local brewery” as one of the day’s options, we signed up before you could say, “cerveza!”

    We found out the night before though, our ride would no longer end up at the brewery, but that we’d go to the brewery in the evening instead. We decided to forge ahead with the two-wheel adventure anyway, so after long and a twisty van ride back down the mountains, we met up with our mountain bike guides for the day to get situated with a bike, helmet, and gloves. I’m pretty sure this was my first time riding a real mountain bike! (I’ve always had a hybrid or road bike.)

    The first half of our bike ride was exactly what I envisioned – peacefully riding a wide dirt road along the river and taking in the fresh air, pedaling with breathtaking scenic views of the mountains, and waving to the occasional locals working the land.

    The second half of our ride took a bit of a weird turn though! Following our guides, we crossed a road over into the town and exchanged our peaceful tra-la-la style ride into a hectic mix of dodging town traffic, riding narrow paths with challenging terrain (at least challenging for a beginner mountain biker; Chris did great with all of it, of course), and hauling ourselves up some hills that sometimes forced me to walk my bike up the slope.

    It was more of a frustrated stomp rather than walk, really. Granted, I found out at the end I was using a gear that was way too heavy for riding uphill, but still. Combine that with almost falling over every time I didn’t successfully navigate an obstacle plus my mismanaged expectations, and I got a little cranky on the second half of the ride. I clearly needed more mountain biking skills to enjoy this half of the excursion.

    In hindsight, we wouldn’t have chosen the bike ride if it wasn’t connected to the brewery (we sound like two lushes, but we just enjoy trying new beers!). I’m glad we still went though. I loved the first half and it’s not like I get to ride a bike through the Sacred Valley of Peru every day. And apparently I provided some good entertainment to the townspeople as I screamed my way through several blind traffic intersections. You’re welcome, Urubamba!

    I happily ditched the mountain bike and helmet when we ended up at our fairytale accommodations for the night, K’uychi Rumi Lodges.

    Seriously. Look at the cute little path we took to get to our lodge. Every inch of the path was lined with dozens of different varieties of flowers. There was even a lime tree. I couldn’t put my camera down!

    After unlocking the front door with our llama keychained-key, we walked into a large, airy space with a cozy rustic feel. We had access to a full kitchen, a dining room, a sunken living room, and there was a bedroom on the first floor along with a bathroom. Tea and coca leaves were available for our enjoyment. I forgot to take a photo, but the door in the kitchen exited to a cute garden area with outdoor seating.

    Upstairs we found another bedroom and a second bathroom. Some of the people in our group shared a lodge, but we ended up having this one to ourselves. We would have loved having all of this space if we were staying in the area for a few nights!

    Not only was I happy to get settled in, but I was even happier that lunch was next on the schedule, and we were treated to a delicious Peruvian-style barbecue (that I totally forgot to photograph because I was ravenous) in a lovely outdoor setting.

    With satisfied bellies, we all headed out in the late afternoon for a quick stroll through the town of Ollyantaytambo with its Incan water system (aqueduct canals cut out of stone) and the original Incan street names.

    And finally, we ended up at Cervecería Del Valle Sagrado. Chris and I loved this little brewery in the valley, and had fun trying a couple of their brews. The place and the line-up on tap reminded us more of an American style than what we pictured when thinking of a Peruvian craft brewery, but for good reason – the original brewmaster hails from Washington, D.C., and originally started his foray into brewing in Oregon!

    We took a tour in addition to trying a couple of pints (all of the glassware for flights was currently in-use) and learned how the crew sources their ingredients and produces a final product. They’ve won some awards and the tap room was quite busy, so it looks like the craft beer scene is alive and well deep in the Sacred Valley.

    Next in the queue: a drama-filled Day Six as we return to Ollantaytambo to try to see the Sun Temple amidst some local turmoil!

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  • A Nonstop Caloriefest in Lima, Peru

    A Nonstop Caloriefest in Lima, Peru

    When one is planning to be in a city known as the Culinary Capital of South America, what does one do? Plan as many eating-related activities as possible, of course! Chris and I stayed in Lima, Peru for a full day on each end of our Lares Adventure trek and we were excited to try the cuisine on a new continent since it was our first time in South America. We stepped off the plane Saturday night with a list of must-try foods and we even had reservations for a food tour with The Lima Gourmet Company first thing Sunday morning.

    The food tour kicked off our time in Peru with the perfect introduction to the city by combining an overview of several neighborhoods, visits to delicious restaurants, a tour of a local market, and even lunch alongside ancient ruins. The bright white skies of Lima in winter made kind of a gloomy first impression on me, but I easily warmed up to the capital once I started tasting the cuisine.

    In case you plan to do the tour, I don’t want to spoil the surprise with all of the specifics, but we drank rich Peruvian coffee, sampled a fresh smoothie, tried exotic fruits we had never even heard of (e.g., granadilla, chirimoya, aguaymanto), learned to make Pisco sours and ceviche, and finished with a fantastic small plates-style lunch and a view of Huaca Pucllana. If you have some time in Lima and an empty stomach, I highly recommend this tour as a way to see and taste some highlights of the city! (Note: We skipped breakfast and did the day tour which lasts from about 9:30am to 2:30pm. We barely needed anything else to eat that day!)

    And okay, I will post the exact details on one of the locations – Huaca Pucllana Restaurant is absolutely worth a stop if you don’t have time to do the food tour. We enjoyed so many dishes including anticuchos, lomo saltado, lucuma mousse, and warm rice pudding, plus we had a beautiful view of the archaeological site while we ate our lunch.

    Of course, Chris and I had to try Peruvian beer, too, so after our tour we made a point to check out the Barranco Beer Company brewery in the charming bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. They offer six brews on tap and we tried all of them, as well as an empanada snack in place of a light dinner (not pictured).

    By the evening we found ourselves needing only something sweet, so we finished up our first day in Peru at Manolo Churros, a staple in the Miraflores district.

    The next day we boarded a plane for Cusco in order to start our week-long adventure in the Sacred Valley, but we returned to Lima once again after the trek…you know, so we could eat (and see) a few more things before returning to the States. Thursday evening we met up with a friend of mine from Virginia who moved to Peru a couple of years ago. We ate at a great Italian restaurant, Los Bachiche, to switch things up from Peruvian food. You might be asking, “Where are the photos, Susan?!” Alas, we were too busy chatting and catching up, so I don’t have a single photo to show you! But I can attest that my tortellini was divine.

    On Friday, our last full day in Peru, we wanted to visit the historic central area so I booked a walking tour, but first we stopped at the popular La Lucha Sangucheria for a chicharrón sandwich and fresh juice. The sandwich is pork, sweet potato, onions, and a green aji sauce and I’m glad we tried it! So good.

    We also happened to book a hotel practically next door to this gem in Lima, Miss Cupcakes. I don’t know about you, but I’m still really into the whole cupcakes trend and I love trying them wherever I can find them, so what I am about to state is a big deal: these were the best cupcakes I’ve ever had. Booking a hotel just yards away from this place was kismet. Six cupcakes lasted two people less than 24 hours. Thankfully we had already earned our cupcakes from the prior week’s hiking, biking, and climbing!

    And in case we needed to burn off a bit more of that sugar, we set off in the afternoon for a walking tour of Lima Centro, the historic district. Our tour began in Plaza San Martin and included a visit to the Monasterio de San Francisco and its fabulously creepy bone-filled catacombs, but no photos were allowed inside (boo). We ended the tour at Plaza de Armas and were transported back to Miraflores for…guess what? More eating! (It’s the title of the blog post!)

    For the grand finale to our Lima caloriefest, Chris and I headed to ámaZ in Miraflores for a huge Amazonian-Peruvian feast. Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs so we ordered a ton of dishes, and even the half-portions at ámaZ are generous. I’ve never been so full in my life! We tried wild boar empanadas, a charcuterie board, lomo saltado, fried rice, and pork-stuffed plantains. It was all amazing, and so satisfying. Their dessert menu looked incredible and definitely tempted us, but we found ourselves too full for another bite. This was one of our favorite meals on the trip!

    We consider our quest to Eat All the Things in Lima a big success! We do have a few places left over on our list because we ran out of time: Panadería El Pan De La Chola is one that I wanted to get to, but just couldn’t squeeze it in during our stay. If you’ve been to Lima, how did we do? Did we miss anything that we need to put on the list for next time?

    Up next: we visit Cusco before jumping into our Lares Adventure!

  • The Great Beer-Off of 2016: Round 2 Germany

    The Great Beer-Off of 2016: Round 2 Germany

    As I mentioned in the first Great Beer-Off post, Chris and I had a bit of a theme to several of our 2016 travels: beer. We scheduled a trip to Belgium last year after Chris read a magazine article about Belgium’s breweries. Chris also had Oktoberfest on his bucket list, so Germany was added to the itinerary for 2016. And since Prague isn’t far at all from Munich, I tacked it onto our Oktoberfest trip, giving us a well-rounded sample of Europe’s very best beers: Belgian, German, and Czech.

    When I started this series of posts, I imagined I’d wrap it up a little more timely than this, but better late than never, right? So here we are with Round 2 of the Great Beer-Off: Germany! What better place to indulge in a draught or two (or three or more…) than in a country where a multi-week festival is largely centered around the enjoyment of beer.

    While we did enjoy brews in a few areas of Germany including Fussen and Mittenwald, the majority of our beer fun took place in Munich during the first few days of Oktoberfest. Before even heading to the fairgrounds to visit the various beer tents, Chris and I spent a good amount of time in the beer halls and cellars around the capital of Bavaria including Hofbräuhaus, Der Pschorr, and Augustiner Bräu München.

    The weather did not cooperate for all three of the days we stayed in Munich, but these spots provided the perfect atmosphere and hiding spot from the rain and cold. And I loved having a good excuse for tucking into German comfort food which always paired well with our beers.

    From the looks of it, I’m starting to become a real beer fan, right? Truth: I didn’t completely finish any of my beers in the photos. I did, however, manage to drink about one-and-a-half masses total while we were in Germany. I suppose I only made a small dent in the 6 million liters of beer served at Oktoberfest, but for me it was quite an accomplishment!

    Despite still not being a true beer drinker, I actually enjoyed the beer in the Löwenbräu tent – it was super easy to drink with a fresh taste and a smooth finish. And what about the real beer fan who inspired this trip? Chris’s official favorite beers from our time in Germany were Paulaner Hefe-Weizen and Hofbräu Original, both for their crisp and refreshing qualities. He was a good sport and happily helped me finish my masses when I petered out.

    Conclusions from Germany: I think this trip to Oktoberfest put me one step closer to becoming a beer drinker! I enjoyed trying all of the Oktoberfest varieties, and while I didn’t feel the need to stand on a table and chug a full mass, I was happy to participate as a casual consumer. To complete this series with Round 3, I’ll post next about our beers in the Czech Republic along with my results for the Great Beer-Off of 2016!

  • A Pit Stop in Pilsen

    A Pit Stop in Pilsen

    As fans of visiting breweries all over the world, of course Chris and I had to stop in Pilsen, Czech Republic on the way to Prague from Munich. Home to the Pilsner Urquell brewery, Pilsen is about 90 kilometers (56 miles) outside of Prague, so it’s certainly possible as an easy day trip from the capital, too.

    A note for anyone driving through from Germany though – you’ll need to stop into a gas station before crossing the border to purchase a toll sticker that allows you to drive on the expressways. We stopped for gas along Rt. 6 before entering CR and asked for the decal at the counter. I even learned how to ask for it in German just in case, but the attendant understood what I meant when I first asked in simple English. Our decal was good for 10 days and it was around 310 CZK ($12-ish USD). I filled it out, placed it on the inside bottom right-hand corner of the windshield, and we were good to go.
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    We started out that morning thinking we would stop in Pilsen for both lunch and a visit to the brewery, but getting out of Munich took a little lot longer than we anticipated due to a misunderstanding we had with our GPS, so lunch ended up being at a McDonald’s (gasp) somewhere along the road. We only ended up with enough time to pop into the brewery for a beer and to peruse the gift shop so our visit was short and sweet, much like this blog post!

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    Pilsner Urquell has a huge visitor center, offers extensive brewery tours, and there’s a restaurant on-site, so we just might have to return to Pilsen one day for the whole kit and caboodle. But for that day we were happy simply to relax, buy a t-shirt, and enjoy our first Czech beer in Czech Republic.

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    Our two-week Central European itinerary ended with a few awesome days in Prague, which turned out to be my favorite spot of the whole trip, and those posts are up next!

  • The Great Beer-Off of 2016: Round 1 Belgium

    The Great Beer-Off of 2016: Round 1 Belgium

    Somewhat unintentionally, Chris and I ended up making the bulk of our 2016 travel plans with a bit of a theme: beer. We scheduled a trip to Belgium after Chris read a magazine article about touring Belgium’s breweries and bars on a bicycle. Chris has also always wanted to go to Oktoberfest, so Germany was added to the itinerary for this year. And since Prague isn’t far at all from Munich, I tacked it onto our Oktoberfest trip, giving us a well-rounded sample of Europe’s very best beers: Belgian, German, and Czech.

    And that gave me the idea of pitting the countries against each other in The Great Beer-Off of 2016: Belgium vs. Germany vs. Czech Republic. (Insert dramatic music here.) So I present to you Round 1 of the Great Beer-Off: Belgium! (More dramatic music? Or perhaps a drumroll was needed.)
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    Chris and I kicked off our Belgian beer experience learning about Henri Maes and the last working brewery in Bruges, De Halve Maan Brouwerij. We took the 90-minute XL tour at 2pm, where our impressive guide led us through the brewery and a private beer tasting in three languages. We tasted three different beers (four, actually, since our last taste was a choice and we each picked a different beer) during a leisurely guided tasting for 19 euros per person.
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    The tour was the perfect length to be informative and captivating, and our guide injected plenty of wit into the history and facts. As a bonus, the brewery has a fantastic rooftop view of Bruges. We both loved the Brugse Zot as our favorite from the tasting.
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    In addition to taking the brewery tour and drinking several beers at various restaurants, Chris and I also visited The Bottle Shop on Wollestraat to choose a few bottles from their incredibly extensive collection. A friendly local helped us pick out a selection of four different Belgian beers which we brought back to the hotel to sample throughout our stay. Chris especially enjoyed Delirium Tremens which thankfully we can purchase back home.
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    I’m just recently beginning my foray into the world of beer so I may still be developing my palate, but I found most Belgian beers a little difficult to drink other than the Brugse Zot. I think it was the combination of new and different spices that I’m not used to, but I did have fun trying them all.

    Up next, Germany and a little festival called Oktoberfest (you may have heard of it?) will throw down in Round 2 of the Great Beer-Off of 2016!