Tag: Peru

  • Lares Adventure – Day 1: Chinchero, Moray, and Maras

    Lares Adventure – Day 1: Chinchero, Moray, and Maras

    After spending two nights in Lima and two nights in Cusco to acclimate, Chris and I were excited and ready to set off for the Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure with Mountain Lodges of Peru! The night before our adventure began, we met our awesome guide, Eddie, and seven other fellow trekkers for a briefing. At the meeting, we went through introductions (we ended up with a fantastic group of people!), discussed logistics and packing, and went over the process for selecting the cultural activities and hikes. Over the next several posts I’m going to blog about each day that Chris and I experienced on the seven-day trek, so let’s get started!

    In the morning on Day One, the MLP van collected all of us at our respective hotels and then we hit the road leading out of Cusco. Our first cultural experience was a visit to a small village where we were treated to an in-depth weaving demonstration with information about the use of alpaca wool and the natural dyeing process. It was fascinating to see how they are able to get such vivid colors found in nature from plants, flowers, fruits, and minerals. One of the ladies even showed us how to get a bright red by smashing a beetle right in the palm of her hand (eek).

    And this was our first real opportunity to get up close to some alpacas since a few were penned up nearby. (Note: We ended up seeing hundreds of them all over the Sacred Valley throughout the seven days.) Look at those lashes and fuzzy noses! Their wool is considered to be a very high quality material in the Andean region for its softness and durability.

    After the weaving demonstration we moved on to the archaeological site of Chinchero to continue learning about Andean life and to begin our foray into the history of the ancient Incan Empire.

    And this was where we started to realize what a treasure Eddie was – his guided tours were incredibly informative, funny, and passionate. I don’t think there was a single question about Peru to which he didn’t know the answer. He also asked all of us questions about our own home countries during our time together, and we could tell how much he genuinely cared about constantly learning and soaking up all kinds of world history, culture, and general information. Our assistant guide, Admil, was also so knowledgeable, sweet, and fun. We hit the guide jackpot for sure!

    At the archaeological site we visited a beautiful seventeenth century colonial church (no photos allowed inside) that was built right on top of an Incan structure. The walls built by Incas are easily recognizable by their technique of precision-fitted cuts and slight inward tilt, theorized to prevent earthquake damage. So smart!

    Eddie also introduced us to the ancient technique of dehydrating potatoes which is done out in a sunny field like the one shown below. Once dehydrated, the potatoes can last for years to be used in soups and stews.

    After the guided tour of Chinchero, our group split up into two smaller groups for two different hikes. Half of the group set off on foot to hike down from Chinchero. Chris and I boarded the bus for the hike that would include a visit to the Moray archaeological site and then the Maras salt ponds. The salt ponds were one of the main reasons we selected the seven-day Lares Adventure vs. the five-day itinerary, so obviously we couldn’t pass that up!

    We passed through more villages along our route, and all the while my face was pressed up against the bus window soaking up details of the fascinating Andean lifestyle.

    At Moray we discovered stunning visual evidence of Incan agricultural experiments, which totally blew my mind. They went to so much trouble building this intricate terraced site to experiment with farming techniques, and I find it challenging just to keep a houseplant alive. I would have made a terrible Inca.

    We ate lunch in the town of Maras before arriving at the salt ponds for one of the coolest hikes I’ve ever done. Our walk began at the visitor center and continued along the edges of the salt ponds. The terraced formation and salt mining process dates back to pre-Incan times, and we learned about the tasks that are still performed today using that same pre-Incan structure.

    As we walked along the narrow salty ridges deep into the mines, the tourist crowd (well, other tourists that is) thinned out and the site became more peaceful as we were left with only our small group guided by Eddie. He explained that the salty water source (which we tasted!) comes from a subterranean stream which pours over the terraces, filling the ponds. As the sun shines down along the cliffs, the water evaporates and the salt remains. We observed families working in their ponds harvesting the salt crystals. Mmm, salty.

    The hike continued along the entire length of the salt mines and then a few miles down a dusty trail into the valley along the Urubamba river.

    Our Maras visit was my favorite part of the day and one of my most favorite hikes ever. I had never seen anything like it! It helped that we were gifted with absolutely gorgeous weather, too.

    Both groups met back up in the evening at the incredible Lamay Lodge where we ooh’ed and ahh’ed over our accommodations (complete with resident llama), enjoyed the hot tub, ate dinner, and attended our next briefing.

    I wish I had taken the time to photograph our lovely meal prepared by the brilliant chefs at the lodge, but we were ravenous after our big day (despite eating nearly that entire mini fruit basket as a snack) and I didn’t pause for even one snap.

    So that’s it for Day One! Next up, a visit to the community of Viacha and the archaeological site of Pisaq on Day Two.

  • Catching Our Breath in Cusco

    Catching Our Breath in Cusco

    As per the advice recommended by so many sources, Chris and I spent two nights in Cusco before setting off on our Sacred Valley journey with Mountain Lodges of Peru. We also spent two additional nights in the Inca Empire capital post-trekking so that we could rest up before returning to Lima.

    During the trip planning process I thought about trying to get to Lake Titicaca or maybe even the Amazon, but I went with my gut which told me that we’d be tired after the trek and in need of some down time. I was right. And it turns out we needed the buffer on the way back for trip delays due to protests in the area, but more on that in a minute.

    We took a short flight on LATAM Airlines from Lima to Cusco and arrived to rumblings of the teachers’ strike activity affecting transportation. Sure enough, our taxi that we had booked in advance couldn’t reach the inside of the airport to pick us up. It wasn’t a huge deal – we just met the driver outside of the small airport and walked a few blocks to his parked car.

    After getting settled into our fantastic hotel (I’ll write more about it in a future post), we headed out on foot to explore the city’s quaint cobblestone streets. Cusco is simple to navigate and most everything is accessible by walking. The altitude took my breath away a little at the airport upon arrival, but after a few hours I didn’t notice our 11,500 feet above sea level-ness. Chris had very minor headaches every once in a while, but thankfully neither of us had true troubles with the altitude.

    It wasn’t long before we found ourselves in the middle of Plaza de Armas. We returned to this spot several times throughout our stay since it’s the heart of the city and thus the perfect place for people-watching and the launch pad for many of the city’s attractions. We sat on a park bench in the plaza and thought about the Incas and their time there so many centuries ago. (We also took a very post-Incan selfie in that spot.)

    Craving a good view of the plaza, we paid a small fee to go inside the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús and we headed up to the lower level of the bell tower. Even if it wasn’t my favorite bird’s-eye view ever, it was an easy climb and you can get a better look at the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin (a.k.a., Cusco Cathedral). Unfortunately, photos aren’t allowed elsewhere inside of the church, but it’s an incredibly ornate interior with tons of gold and beautiful artwork, so I recommend the experience even sans camera.

    Speaking of places that don’t allow photos, we also spent some time at the Museo Inka to brush up on our history before heading off to the Sacred Valley. The museum houses an impressive collection of Inca and pre-Inca artifacts including tools, textiles, jewelry, pottery, and ceremonial wooden drinking vessels. There is also a big model of the Machu Picchu citadel.

    Of course, with all of the shops and markets lining the streets of Cusco, we couldn’t help but search for Peruvian souvenirs. I ended up with this Andean-style hat known as a chullo, as well as a crazy-soft throw for the house. Both were purchased at one of the stores specializing in alpaca wool. I also scored a pan flute as a nod to my musician days long ago. Back in our hotel room, I worked out a rudimentary rendition of Mary Had a Little Lamb.

    While we did listen to the advice to acclimate over the course of two nights in Cusco, we ignored the advice to eat light and avoid alcohol. Oops. We ate and drank quite a bit in Cusco, though perhaps slightly more cautiously on our first two nights as opposed to our second time passing through. While we ate mostly Peruvian cuisine during our time in Peru, we ended up celebrating July 4th over burgers with American cheese at Papacho’s. And for dessert we checked off my wish-list item to try alfajor cookies with a Papacho’s alfajor sundae. YUM.

    One of the things we loved about our hotel was their happy hour nights with pisco sours and a Peruvian treat similar to a donut called picarones. I don’t think I’ve ever found a fried dough I didn’t love, and these were no exception.

    We also found various Peruvian beers to sample at Qosco Beer House, which was a fun spot to sit on the deck outside and listen to a live local band. Chris’s favorite beer on the whole trip, though, ended up being at La Bodega 138, a cute pizza joint around the corner from the main plaza. It was our first time trying a beer made with quinoa!

    Our second time coming through Cusco ended up being a little more dramatic than the first. Throughout the week we were in the Sacred Valley, the protests had escalated quite a bit and the transportation issues had become major. Roads in and out of Cusco were blocked with large boulders, parked cars, and an occasional fire. The policia were out in full force with riot gear should the crowds become violent, but Chris and I only witnessed peaceful marches (and the boulders in the road) despite news that protesters had resorted to violence in other areas.

    The plaza and surrounding streets filled with protesters supporting varying causes. Our understanding is that the original teachers’ strike was still ongoing at this point, but that they were also joined by citizens upset over the planned Chinchero airport.

    No worries though. This security llama was on the job. By the time we returned to the Plaza de Armas in the evening, all was calm and the crowd had dissipated.

    We did have to take an extra early taxi to the airport the morning of our 11:45am return flight to Lima to ensure that we could get around any road blocks. Based on social media reports, it sounds like if we had waited to go to the airport later that day, we would have been trapped in Cusco! Leaving before sunrise did the trick since the protesters weren’t active yet and we made our way back to Lima. Good citizens were out moving the boulders in the road and our taxi just had to maneuver around a few remaining obstacles.

    Sadly, we didn’t make our way up to Sacsaywaman or over to the Coricancha as originally planned. We had saved a couple of sites for our second visit coming back through after the trek, but by the time we were back in Cusco we were exhausted. The protest-related delays getting us out of Aguas Calientes put us back at our hotel shortly before Midnight and we ended up taking the following day to rest and repack, thus we skipped any legit sightseeing during our last moments in Cusco. But I’m happy to have a good reason to return!

    Up next: the whole reason for our trip – our adventure with Mountain Lodges of Peru!

  • A Nonstop Caloriefest in Lima, Peru

    A Nonstop Caloriefest in Lima, Peru

    When one is planning to be in a city known as the Culinary Capital of South America, what does one do? Plan as many eating-related activities as possible, of course! Chris and I stayed in Lima, Peru for a full day on each end of our Lares Adventure trek and we were excited to try the cuisine on a new continent since it was our first time in South America. We stepped off the plane Saturday night with a list of must-try foods and we even had reservations for a food tour with The Lima Gourmet Company first thing Sunday morning.

    The food tour kicked off our time in Peru with the perfect introduction to the city by combining an overview of several neighborhoods, visits to delicious restaurants, a tour of a local market, and even lunch alongside ancient ruins. The bright white skies of Lima in winter made kind of a gloomy first impression on me, but I easily warmed up to the capital once I started tasting the cuisine.

    In case you plan to do the tour, I don’t want to spoil the surprise with all of the specifics, but we drank rich Peruvian coffee, sampled a fresh smoothie, tried exotic fruits we had never even heard of (e.g., granadilla, chirimoya, aguaymanto), learned to make Pisco sours and ceviche, and finished with a fantastic small plates-style lunch and a view of Huaca Pucllana. If you have some time in Lima and an empty stomach, I highly recommend this tour as a way to see and taste some highlights of the city! (Note: We skipped breakfast and did the day tour which lasts from about 9:30am to 2:30pm. We barely needed anything else to eat that day!)

    And okay, I will post the exact details on one of the locations – Huaca Pucllana Restaurant is absolutely worth a stop if you don’t have time to do the food tour. We enjoyed so many dishes including anticuchos, lomo saltado, lucuma mousse, and warm rice pudding, plus we had a beautiful view of the archaeological site while we ate our lunch.

    Of course, Chris and I had to try Peruvian beer, too, so after our tour we made a point to check out the Barranco Beer Company brewery in the charming bohemian neighborhood of Barranco. They offer six brews on tap and we tried all of them, as well as an empanada snack in place of a light dinner (not pictured).

    By the evening we found ourselves needing only something sweet, so we finished up our first day in Peru at Manolo Churros, a staple in the Miraflores district.

    The next day we boarded a plane for Cusco in order to start our week-long adventure in the Sacred Valley, but we returned to Lima once again after the trek…you know, so we could eat (and see) a few more things before returning to the States. Thursday evening we met up with a friend of mine from Virginia who moved to Peru a couple of years ago. We ate at a great Italian restaurant, Los Bachiche, to switch things up from Peruvian food. You might be asking, “Where are the photos, Susan?!” Alas, we were too busy chatting and catching up, so I don’t have a single photo to show you! But I can attest that my tortellini was divine.

    On Friday, our last full day in Peru, we wanted to visit the historic central area so I booked a walking tour, but first we stopped at the popular La Lucha Sangucheria for a chicharrón sandwich and fresh juice. The sandwich is pork, sweet potato, onions, and a green aji sauce and I’m glad we tried it! So good.

    We also happened to book a hotel practically next door to this gem in Lima, Miss Cupcakes. I don’t know about you, but I’m still really into the whole cupcakes trend and I love trying them wherever I can find them, so what I am about to state is a big deal: these were the best cupcakes I’ve ever had. Booking a hotel just yards away from this place was kismet. Six cupcakes lasted two people less than 24 hours. Thankfully we had already earned our cupcakes from the prior week’s hiking, biking, and climbing!

    And in case we needed to burn off a bit more of that sugar, we set off in the afternoon for a walking tour of Lima Centro, the historic district. Our tour began in Plaza San Martin and included a visit to the Monasterio de San Francisco and its fabulously creepy bone-filled catacombs, but no photos were allowed inside (boo). We ended the tour at Plaza de Armas and were transported back to Miraflores for…guess what? More eating! (It’s the title of the blog post!)

    For the grand finale to our Lima caloriefest, Chris and I headed to ámaZ in Miraflores for a huge Amazonian-Peruvian feast. Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs so we ordered a ton of dishes, and even the half-portions at ámaZ are generous. I’ve never been so full in my life! We tried wild boar empanadas, a charcuterie board, lomo saltado, fried rice, and pork-stuffed plantains. It was all amazing, and so satisfying. Their dessert menu looked incredible and definitely tempted us, but we found ourselves too full for another bite. This was one of our favorite meals on the trip!

    We consider our quest to Eat All the Things in Lima a big success! We do have a few places left over on our list because we ran out of time: Panadería El Pan De La Chola is one that I wanted to get to, but just couldn’t squeeze it in during our stay. If you’ve been to Lima, how did we do? Did we miss anything that we need to put on the list for next time?

    Up next: we visit Cusco before jumping into our Lares Adventure!

  • The Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure to Machu Picchu

    The Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure to Machu Picchu

    Buenas tardes, amigos! Chris and I just returned from a whirlwind adventure in Peru, and I’m still in the process of unpacking my thoughts and all of our stuff, not to mention I still need to go through hundreds and hundreds of photos! But in the meantime, I thought I’d start out by posting about our trekking company and how we decided to book the itinerary we did, since that’s generally one of the first steps for anyone deciding on a trek in Peru.

    If you happened to read my post waaay back in 2014 about planning a trip to Peru, you’ll know that we wanted to do an adventure trek that ended up at Machu Picchu and that we had been researching an adventure travel company called Mountain Lodges of Peru. I was sold on MLP for their commitment to eco-friendly lodging in the Sacred Valley and I loved that they partner with the Andean community, but we didn’t get around to booking a trip with them right away because of other travel plans. By the time I was ready to solidify a trip to Peru, MLP had added a new trek called the Sacred Valley and Lares Adventure to Machu Picchu, and I was hooked. Here are our top 5 reasons for choosing/booking the Lares Adventure:

    1. Cultural Submersion

    The Lares Adventure promised to take us into Andean villages to witness and experience local customs such as weaving, farming, and cooking, and that’s exactly what we wanted. In my research and travel planning, the Lares Adventure seemed to be a favorite for fans of slower travel who wanted to experience the Andean region at a more relaxed pace. This was the perfect combination of nature and culture, with amazing opportunities to get to know the local people.

    2. Efficiency

    The Lares Adventure started and ended hikes in ideal spots. I really appreciated the idea of getting right to the meat of the hikes, which saved precious time to put toward cultural experiences.

    3. Customization

    The Lares Adventure was designed to offer a customizable experience for each participant, so every night on the trek our group attended a briefing to go over the activity options for the next day. This flexibility appealed to me not only for the variety of experiences, but also because while I have been blessed with a strong sense of adventure, I am also cursed with an extremely sensitive digestive system. I have a few food allergies and sensitivities, but I still like to try new foods and to experience local cuisines when we travel. In doing so, I worry that I’ll try something new only to find out that I’m intolerant to it.

    When I’m in civilization it’s not a big deal, but I haven’t yet taken my sensitive belly on an extended hike combined with unfamiliar cuisine, and I was a little nervous at the thought of the Salkantay Trek’s only option to hike lodge-to-lodge every day. So I liked the idea of the customizable Lares Adventure and having the option to participate in an easier or shorter day if needed, and thus we chose Lares over Salkantay. (And sure enough, there was one day on our trip that my stomach rebelled and I was thankful not to have to do an eight-mile hike.)

    4. Mountain Biking

    In addition to hiking and cultural excursions in the villages, the Lares Adventure also offered opportunities for bike rides! We love riding the trails at home, so we enjoyed mixing it up between hiking and biking while in Peru.

    5. Comfort

    I’ll be frank: I immediately fell in love with the idea of MLP for the option to sleep in a bed rather than on the ground as you do with a trekking company on the Inca Trail. Chris would do fine on the trail and with camping the entire time, but when it comes down to it, I’m just not really interested in camping for more than a night or two. Camping every single night for the whole trek simply doesn’t appeal to me. I kind of wish it did, but we can’t all love the same things, right? I’m happy to say the lodges were all gorgeous and comfortable, and they had wonderful, modern bathrooms. One of the lodges even had a hot tub! Post-hike heaven.

    And as a bonus sixth reason, the Lares Adventure was a perfectly serene crowd-free alternative to the more popular Inca Trail route. Our hikes only included our group and the occasional local villagers. We walked for miles and miles without seeing another soul, and it was blissful.

    We’re incredibly happy with our choice to book with Mountain Lodges of Peru, and I have lots more to tell you about the trek. First though, we spent a bit of time in Lima and Cusco – those posts are up next!

    Note:  This post is not sponsored by Mountain Lodges of Peru and I did not receive anything in exchange for this post. We just loved our trip with them!

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

    SaveSave

  • Preliminary Planning: Peru

    I’m in the very early planning stages of a potential trip to Peru, and I thought it might help me to hash it out on paper screen. Plus if anyone has any experience with hiking one of the trails to Machu Picchu, I’d love your input!

    The trek appeals to me for a few reasons. I’ve never really done an adventure like this where the journey is just as much a part of the experience as the destination. I have some hiking experience, but only on short trails 4-5 miles at most and not for several days in a row. So this would be something new, and I love trying new things. A hike of this length (32 miles) at a high altitude with a hefty vertical climb would be a bit of challenge for me, and I do like to push myself. I’ve been hiking in the Rocky Mountains and the Swiss Alps and we’ve been snowboarding and skiing in the Rockies the past several years, so I’m aware of the potential for altitude sickness. I don’t usually have a problem with altitude changes, but I do notice a slight difference in how it feels to breathe when I’m really exerting myself. I’m willing to give it a try though. (The hiking, not the sickness.) Plus, Chris and I have never been to Peru or South America, and we’re always excited to see new places! The thought of seeing an area so rich with ancient history gives me goosebumps.

    2014-07-03_0001hiking in Virginia, El Yunque Rainforest (PR), and Alaska

    I have no very little doubt in my ability to meet the physical demands of this hike with some training before we go. Truth be told, I’d like to do this trip while I still have the most spring in my step (although I’ve read accounts of people who have done the trek in their 70s). What I do doubt though, is my ability to do the hike after attempting to sleep outdoors on the ground. I am a super light sleeper and have zero camping experience. To add to that, I wouldn’t be able to fall asleep knowing my camera, passport, and other belongings are unsecured. Ideally I’d like to be able to appreciate the journey and my surroundings, and generally for me to enjoy anything I require sleep and time to reset. In that regard, I guess I’m a little high-maintenance, but I don’t think it’s my fault! I would love to be a heavy sleeper, trust me. So there’s that, and I’m also a little concerned about dealing with my dietary restrictions and sensitive stomach, but I think I have found a solution that will address both of these concerns.

    Mountain Lodges of Peru (MLP) offers a guided Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. Compared to the Inca Trail, the Salkantay option is apparently the more challenging option in that it is a few miles longer at a higher altitude over rougher terrain, but the trek offered through MLP includes lodging along the route in accommodations with real beds, hot tubs (!), and showers. That sounds more like my speed! I’d have a better chance at getting some much needed rest, and I think my dining options would open up a little by staying at a lodge each night. I’ve read about the, ahem, “facilities” situation along the trail, so combine that with the difficulty of the 32-mile hike itself and that will probably be enough roughing it for me. The Eleanor Roosevelt quote is, “You must do the thing you think you cannot do.” So, that’s one singular thing. It’s not, “Do several things all at once that you think you cannot do.” I promise to try camping another time – it’s on my list.

    2014-07-18_0002photos courtesy of mountainlodgesofperu.com

    From what I’ve researched, the Salkantay Trek offers incredibly beautiful scenery and perhaps a more peaceful experience due to fewer people choosing this route. I keep reading that the Inca Trail can feel slightly crowded at times. I also like the idea of only seeing one ruins site at the end of the trek – I’ve read reports from Inca Trail hikers that there are several ruins along the way potentially making Machu Picchu feel slightly anticlimactic, though I’m sure that’s not the experience for everyone. I’d probably be weirdly over-thrilled at seeing every single thing as I so often am.

    I think I’d love to hike either trail, but the lodging option very (very very) strongly appeals to me, so Salkantay with MLP might be our best bet. I’m slightly bummed at the thought of not doing the classic Inca Trail, but from my research so far it doesn’t look like there’s an option for lodging along the way. Chris is completely resilient and would do great with camping each night, but he always votes for whatever will make me happy. (Isn’t he awesome? And smart – I’m sure he doesn’t want to do a strenuous hike all day with me after I’ve had no sleep the night before.) I realize I’d lose a bit of travel cred for not doing the camping thing, but I don’t travel for bragging rights. I simply want the experience of the hike, the scenery along the way, and of seeing the ruins. And yes, obviously it’s pricier to stay in lodges instead of tents, but this would be our big trip for that year and we’d save up our pennies accordingly.

    So what do you think? Am I on the right track with my planning? Does anyone have any experience with either trail, or especially with MLP? Please feel free to comment or send me an email with your advice!