Tag: St. John

  • St. John Snapshot

    St. John Snapshot

    And now without further ado, here is my St. John snapshot post! I’ve rounded up a few snippets of info about our trip, and some of our favorite moments and photos.

    Trip Details

    Chris and I traveled to St. John, U.S.V.I. with my sister and brother-in-law, and we all stayed on the Coral Bay side of the island in a two-bedroom villa called All About the View. We flew round-trip from IAD to STT June 2-9 and we rented a Jeep once we arrived on St. John.

    Best Moment

    I’ll have to separate this category into a two-part answer this time! Best travel-related moment was our day in Maho Bay swimming with the turtles. I was so thrilled to see these guys thriving and it was a treat to see so many at once!

    Best non-travel-related moment: the Washington Capitals won the Stanley Cup while we were on the island! Chris and I watched the whole game from the bar at Greengos over margaritas and nachos. Of course we would have loved to experience the watch parties at home with the massive throngs of fans in D.C. or even to attend the game in Vegas, but the next best thing was seeing our team take the cup and then to celebrate with tequila shots with a handful of other Caps fans on the island. We’ll never forget that night!

    Worst Moment

    Spider. Big one. Spotted in my bathroom after I finished taking a shower. My brave and heroic sister managed to catch it and relocate it outside. (Arachnophobia must not be genetic.) If you know me well, you know there are no photos of this incident. This is a spider-free blog.

    Funniest Moment

    I think everything that falls into this category from this particular trip is a you-had-to-be-there moment, like the four of us doing impressions from an overheard conversation of some construction workers next door. We kept ourselves giggling all week, but it’s hard to recreate that here.

    Best Meal

    This is a tough one on an island that consistently offers amazing options in the food and drink department. We loved so many meals throughout the week, but we all agreed that Indigo Grill was our favorite spot and we ended up eating there twice. Reasons for landing in the top spot include live music, a huge menu with tons of delicious choices, and some of the best mango margaritas I’ve ever had. Chris and I split ceviche and the Cuban sandwich, and of course we had to try their version of the island’s most popular drink: the Painkiller. Yuuum.

    Perhaps a second-runner up for me was drinks and snacks at The Longboard. Those Caribbean Summer Rolls with a peanut dipping sauce were fantastic!

    Something We Learned

    We learned that the island is doing even better than we imagined. Recovery is well underway, the locals’ spirits are high, and the island is more than ready to welcome visitors!

    We’re Thankful We Packed

    Neso Tent turned out to be a really fantastic item to have! The foliage around the beaches on St. John still needs some additional time to recover, but in the meantime this little tent is the perfect shade solution.

    The tent works by filling a sandbag pouch in each corner after pulling the tent into an x-shape. Once the anchors are situated, you simply prop the poles up inside. It did take a bit of trial and error to figure out how to position the tent against the wind, but once we got the hang of how to anchor it it worked perfectly! (The trick was to heavily fill and then bury the anchors.)

    We Didn’t Need To Bring

    I think we packed pretty well for this trip. It helps that this was our fourth visit to the island, so we’re well-versed in what we need to bring (most important: bug spray). We used/wore everything in our suitcases!

    Trip Regrets

    I wish I took more photos! I did grab a couple of the four of us this time, so it’s an improvement over our last trip together, but I didn’t document a ton. Sometimes it’s really nice for me to take a break from being behind the camera all of the time.

    Reasons To Go Back

    We can always, always go back to St. John, no reason needed!

    Favorite Photos

    Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of my links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you so much for reading and for your support!

  • Returning to Love City Post-Irma: Part Two

    Returning to Love City Post-Irma: Part Two

    Upon arriving to St. John nine months after Hurricane Irma I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect. The same warm, salt-water air surrounded us as we stepped off the plane in St. Thomas, but I braced myself for a visit unlike past trips to the USVIs. I had read that the foliage was sparse, several buildings were badly damaged, and some restaurants and shops had not yet reopened.

    Riding in a taxi pointed toward Red Hook on St. Thomas, my sister, brother-in-law, Chris, and I listened to our driver’s account of how the storm impacted the islands and his family. Our views out the van windows and then on the passenger ferry to Cruz Bay verified the condition of the island – roofless buildings here and there and pockets of other wreckage, but for every time I spotted a tarp-covered house or an abandoned boat washed up onto shore, I also encountered signs of resilience and beginning anew. Trees with fresh leaves sprouting, healthy animals making their way across the road, or jewel-toned waters taking my breath away.

    Some spots on the island were hard to see. Out of respect for people’s privacy I didn’t photograph any of the damaged houses, but we did see a few homes that were missing roofs or even walls. And while Mother Nature is well on her way to regenerating the lush green tropical foliage we are used to seeing, the hillsides from afar did look quite brown in a lot of areas.

    That said, the island still felt as magical as always. One of the main reasons we love St. John is for the island’s vibe and atmosphere, and that has not changed. Everyone we encountered treated us with the usual warm welcome and kindness. Literal signs of love for the island could be found around every bend in the road. And the views of the water? Still jaw-droppingly gorgeous.

    Eager to show my sister and brother-in-law some of the best parts of the island, we took in as many beach days as we could, starting with a morning on Hawksnest. Nothing made me happier than to see that clear blue water looking as mesmerizing as ever.

    Out of concern for a lack of shade on the beach due to less foliage, we purchased a Neso Tent prior to the trip and it turned out to be a really fantastic item to have! Somehow I managed to miss taking a photo of our own tent, but the two tent images below are courtesy of the Neso website. And it’s the exact same color we purchased. I think the teal blends in with the sky nicely.

    The tent works by filling a sandbag pouch in each corner after pulling the tent into an x-shape. Once the anchors are situated, you simply prop the poles up inside. It did take a bit of trial and error to figure out how to position the tent against the wind, but once we got the hang of how to anchor it it worked perfectly! (The trick was to heavily fill and then bury the anchors.)

    We squeezed the four of us with beach chairs underneath the regular size, but it’s probably better to buy the Neso Tent Grande for more than two people. The tent packs up into a small bag that fits easily into a suitcase or a carry-on, and it’s TSA-compliant since the poles don’t have sharp ends. People frequently complimented our genius set-up and wanted to know more about it. Bonus: the Neso Tent is much easier to carry than an umbrella, and there’s no chance of it flying away and impaling someone. I’m not sponsored by Neso – I just really like their product and highly recommend this shade solution!

    images courtesy of nesotents.com

    Our next beach day took us to Maho Bay, famous for its turtle-sightings. We were treated to swimming with not only one or two turtles, but we spotted somewhere around ten or more! I was completely blissed-out on quality time with sweet testudines. And again…that gorgeous water.

    Any fan of the island knows that no visit to St. John is complete without at least a little time spent at Trunk Bay. We experienced a cloudy sky that day, but happily propped up our tent anyway and went snorkeling along the underwater trail and beyond. The coral right around the trail looked slightly damaged from the storms and some of the trail signage was missing, but further out the coral appeared quite healthy and we saw tons of sealife. I even managed to get a photo of a flamingo tongue snail.

    Sadly, one of my favorite beaches, Cinnamon Bay, did not fare well during the storm. The campgrounds and the surrounding area took a huge hit, and this area is still closed due to the damage. I knew going into this trip that Cinnamon had not been restored, but my heart sunk at the extent of the damage. Thankfully there are plenty of other wonderful beaches to explore, and actually, Cinnamon seemed like a fine spot to sit if you need some absolute peace and quiet (see Exhibit A below: photo of a couple and a shade-seeking chicken under an umbrella on the beach at Cinnamon).

    If my favorite thing about St. John is the overall mood, and my second favorite thing is the beaches…my very next favorite thing is the food. Despite having so many favorite restaurants on St. John, we managed to try several new ones as well and I could not have been more excited to have so many great choices.

    We had a delicious Mexican food lunch at the newly-opened Greengos, complete with margaritas the size of our heads.

    Another new-to-the-island favorite, Lucky Chops, was the perfect spot for Asian small plates in a cozy atmosphere.

    We spotted new (to us) signage at Colombo’s Smoothies, but enjoyed the same rum-optional (always rum!) smoothies with a view as usual.

    The night that the four of us planned to eat at The Longboard a temporary power outage sent us down the street to an old favorite instead, The Lime Inn, but Chris and I returned to The Longboard another night for drinks and appetizers. Try the Caribbean Summer Rolls!

    Lastly, a picture of the four of us (finally!) at our favorite restaurant of the week, Indigo Grill. Here we enjoyed live music, a widely-varied menu, and some of the best mango margaritas I’ve ever had.

    I’m so very glad we decided to keep our original plans and continue with our trip to St. John after the hurricane. We had an amazing time and came back to the States happy and fully rested. I hope this info helps someone to make the same choice to book a trip. The island is definitely ready to welcome guests and your tourism dollars will help boost their economy. Go for the friendly locals, the delicious food, and of course the beautiful views of spectacular beaches. It’s all still there!

    Note: This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase something through one of my links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you so much for reading and for your support!

  • Photo Friday – One of the Locals

    Just a short and sweet one today! This cute kitten was spying on me in St. John while I was photographing some flora around the villa, so I turned my camera on her!

    st_john_cat

  • Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    People often ask me why Chris and I stay in a rental villa/condo on some of our travels instead of a hotel, and if it’s much more expensive. We’ve done vacation rentals about a dozen times now in the last couple of years and the answer is that sometimes it makes more sense for us depending on the location and our plans, and no, it’s not necessarily more expensive! It probably just looks super fancypants when you see pictures of an amazing view or a pool with no one else in it, but I promise we’re not paying crazy prices or using any secret magic tricks. Well, I use some tricks to find good places, but I’ll share those with you.

    For anyone who isn’t familiar with Chris and me, we are thirty-somethings who travel a handful of times throughout the year (about 5-6 times in addition to traveling to see family) and our travel budget is in the middle of the road when it comes to accommodations. The short answer is that we really enjoy staying in rental properties for beach and snow vacations, but in this post I’ll break down our process on the when, why and how.

    02_hotel_vs_rental_blog

    02_grand_cayman_blog

    When and Why Do We Rent?

    For some trips, especially when the purpose is to unwind, we’ve found that we’re able to relax more when we have some space to ourselves instead of sharing common areas with strangers. I do love people-watching, but sometimes you want chill time by the pool, and other people want to yell and scream and “caaaaannonball” into the pool. At a rental villa, we’re able to control the vibe of our surroundings a little better – we can hang out poolside with our own tunes playing (I absolutely love the Jawbone Jambox for this), or have peace and quiet for reading and relaxing. I’m guessing the rental villa option might be nice for families, too, since you can let the kids be kids without worrying that they’re bothering anyone. Even Chris and I enjoy cannonballing guilt-free without disrupting anyone else. And speaking of disruptions, we’ve never encountered any construction noise while renting a private vacation home, but hotels seem to have renovations going on frequently and it’s harder to avoid the noise.

    Staying in a rental home also immerses us a bit more into local culture since we come and go from a residence in a neighborhood, rather than from a cluster of hotels. I love the feeling of living somewhere new even if it’s only for a week, and it’s fun to pretend that the rental is your own home.

    In addition to beach houses, Chris and I like renting condos for our ski trips since rentals usually get us closer to the lifts with great ski-in/ski-out access. Plus, we have so much stuff with us when we snowboard/ski that it’s nice to be able to spread out and have the extra storage space for coats, boots, and gear. No matter the location or rental type (ski condo, beach villa, etc.) you get a lot more space per dollar when you rent a vacation home instead of a hotel room.

    04_hotel_vs_rental_blog

    On the other hand, if we only need a place to sleep (and not really to hang out), or if we’re going somewhere for a week or more but staying in multiple cities, we stay in hotels. And most vacation rentals have a minimum number of nights per stay, so sometimes a hotel is necessary for a shorter getaway. Hotels definitely have their place in our travels. For us it really just depends on the trip, and I do enjoy certain aspects of hotel stays. It’s so wonderful to have someone make the bed and replace the towels, and who doesn’t love a chocolate on their pillow at night? I also love finding boutique hotels and inns with interesting details. I stayed at a hotel once that included a yellow rubber ducky in each of the bathrooms (21C Hotel pictured below on the left). How fun is that? On our trip to Iceland this summer we’re staying in five different towns and I’m excited about some of the cute little Icelandic hotels where we’ll be staying.

    01_hotel_vs_rental_blog

    How Much Does Renting Cost?

    Here’s the big secret that isn’t a secret: staying in a vacation rental isn’t more expensive than staying at a hotel and sometimes it’s even more cost effective. Just to clarify though, I’m not comparing the costs of our rentals to a hostel or a budget motel. I’m comparing our costs to a nice hotel in the three- or maybe four-star range, but there is a huge selection in rental properties to accommodate almost all budgets. It’s going to be more expensive than a hostel or budget hotel stay though, and some amenities like a pool do increase the cost per night.

    When you first look at the weekly cost of a rental, it might appear more expensive than a hotel room in some cases. However, you have to factor in a few things first to compare apples to apples. The final cost of a hotel room per night always incurs taxes and fees, and then you also have to figure in the cost of parking, internet access, eating most meals out/ordering room service, and amenities like laundry service if needed. The rental doesn’t usually have any hidden fees, but you’ll most likely need to pay sales tax, and a security deposit or cleaning fee (usually refundable if you don’t trash the place).

    We get a lot more bang for our buck in a rental, especially when it comes to things like view, amenities, and square footage. Chris and I always go grocery shopping when we stay in a rental so that we can eat breakfasts and lunches “at home,” which saves a considerable amount of money. We’re able to do our own laundry as well. Plus, I usually look for a rental that is just slightly outside of peak season/in-season, in what is sometimes called the shoulder season, low season or off-season. The rates are often dramatically lower, and as a bonus, it’s usually the perfect combination of fewer crowds and good weather. (Note: I’ve also tried renting well into low season, but there are sometimes drawbacks to looking too far into the off-season. It’s “off” for a reason! The weather could be less than ideal or even problematic, like hurricane season in the Caribbean which we definitely have encountered.)

    Also, if you are able to share a rental with another family, couple or group, obviously the price per square foot is even better assuming you rent an appropriate sized property. It’s usually easy to find rentals that accommodate anywhere from two to twenty people or more.

    Full disclosure: a couple of times we have been lucky to score some great deals. One time we rented a villa in St. John two days in advance because our Outer Banks vacation had been thwarted by Hurricane Irene so I found a villa with a good last-minute deal. And on our most recent trip to Grand Cayman, we ended up in a bigger, nicer villa because the one I originally booked was sold before our trip and the new owners decided to live there year-round. That actually happened two times in the process! Apparently this was an extremely rare and crazy occurrence, so our awesome booking agent offered an upgrade at the same price we had already paid. It was just luck that I had been working through a rental company that time instead of directly with the owner like I usually do. So we did save some money on those two trips. We’ve also gotten in early on rentals that have recently come onto the market and aren’t yet charging their full potential. A couple of places have increased to a price range out of our budget after we’ve stayed there!

    Now, when you factor in the cost of transportation we might be on different pages. I can’t stand the thought of going to a new place and not being able to go see the furthest corner of the country/island/state if I so desire. I will want a rental car no matter where I’m staying, so for us a car is always in our costs and is therefore a break-even in the hotel vs. rental equation. A hotel is more likely to be in a location that is walking distance or a short cab ride to restaurants and shops. They may even have a free shuttle. In a vacation rental, you most likely need to have your own car to get around.

    03_hotel_vs_rental_blog

    How Do We Find Rentals?

    I have several favorite sites to search for rentals including FlipKey, VRBO and HomeAway. I have also used Luxury Retreats (which sounds expensive and it can be, but they do have some smaller, less expensive rentals), and for our trip to Grand Cayman I used Grand Cayman Villas which I found during an online search for Cayman rentals. There are so many other sites, but these are the ones I’ve used.

    I do a ton of research to find the perfect home. Often it gets to the point where I could probably get a job as a real estate agent for the area. Who has that kind of time though, right?! Well, I usually start early, as much as a year or so in advance and the research is fun for me so it’s practically a hobby. To narrow down the listings I just use the website’s filters (price, amenities, location, etc.) and I read the reviews for any red flags. I also search to see if anyone has blogged about their stay at a certain rental, or posted about it on any travel forums. Photos from regular travelers rather than professional photos are often a huge help to see what the place actually looks like without Photoshop. I also search to see if the rental has its own site – often times they do, and there may be more information and/or better photos.

    Once I have a few places narrowed down, I put on my stalker detective hat and try to find each house on Google maps to see what the general location is like. Sometimes this takes some super-sleuthing since the exact address usually isn’t posted, but the general area is, and then I use some clues in the photos to figure out which house it is on the map – roof color, pool shape, and view. The map will tell me things like, how close are the neighbors? Are there restaurants/stores nearby? Is there anything potentially noisy in the area? What will the lighting be like throughout the day? (That last one might be a photographer thing, but seeing what direction the home faces might also tell you if the pool will be in the shade all day, or if you have a good chance of seeing some beautiful sunsets!)

    05_hotel_vs_rental_blog

    Once we find a rental we like, it’s just a matter of booking which usually involves reviewing/signing a contract, paying a deposit (anywhere from 25-50% of the total fee), and sometimes paying a refundable damage deposit. Those three main search sites have an online payment feature that I prefer to use, but if the owner doesn’t offer booking through the site, I always try to pay with a credit card to have a little extra protection if something goes belly up. So far so good, but I’ll report back here if anything sour ever happens! We have two trips booked next year with rentals, and I’m always excited to see how it turns out (i.e., how good I did at finding the perfect place). I’ve also booked through full service villa rental companies, Luxury Retreats and Grand Cayman Villas, where the concierge/agent handles the payments and contracts for you. They can also help with the research if you need assistance finding the perfect rental for your needs.

    So what do you think? Have you ever stayed in a vacation rental? What’s your preference? If you need any help getting started on your search, let me know and I’ll be happy to assist! (Disclaimer: Unless like, hundreds of people take me up on this offer.)

    Update 11/9/2015: I’ve now added Airbnb to my travel tool belt! You can read about our Toronto and Edinburgh Airbnb experiences here.

    SaveSave

  • Discovering Scuba Diving

    Discovering Scuba Diving

    Sometime a while ago when Chris and I were having one of our adventure/travel brainstorming discussions about what we’d like to do and where we’d like to go in the future, Chris said he’d love to try scuba* diving someday. Since we planned on visiting the Cayman Islands for a future trip, I began to research and quickly discovered The Caymans are one of the top diving destinations in the world, known for crystal clear waters and beautiful, friendly sea life. I’m typically unable to approach anything new on a casual level, so I immediately decided that if we were going to try scuba diving, we might as well (warning: upcoming pun) dive right in and get PADI certified. You can’t just go dive without some training anyway since there’s a lot involved to it! The certification course consists of three parts – classroom or online study, confined water training (typically held in a swimming pool), and open water dives. I signed up for the first two parts with a local dive shop, and planned to do our check-out open water dives in Grand Cayman since we had already planned to be there.

    I have no problem with the idea of breathing underwater in the pool. That actually sounded fun, so I didn’t think the mechanics of diving would be an issue. But oh, wait…I seemed to have forgotten that I’m fairly terrified of the ocean. Jumping out of a plane? No problem – I didn’t even get the tiniest bit nervous until a few minutes into the flight. Jumping into open water filled with creepy creatures that want to attack me? Problem. I’ve been nervous for months ever since I signed up! And I have absolutely no idea where this fear stems from – I haven’t had any traumatic incidents in the water. I’m not even really worried about sharks when I’m at the beach. It’s the small creatures that freak me out for some reason. (I rue the day I watched a Discovery Channel special about irukandji.)

    Slowly I began to worry more and more about my ability to handle all four of the open water dives required to become certified. So I thought maybe we should do the whole certification on the island and I booked the course with a dive shop that does all the initial training in the shallows of Seven Mile Beach. I figured that way I could gradually get used to being in the ocean. But my anxiety continued to escalate. My concern was that I wouldn’t be a safe diver considering my level of fear when it comes to jellyfish, barracuda and other stinging/biting things in the water. The one thing you can’t do while you’re diving is panic. The other thing you can’t do when you’re diving 30 meters under the surface is bolt back up for any reason – if you ascend too quickly, you risk decompression sickness (a.k.a., the bends). And I’ve been known to panic and bolt in the water! I bolted out of the water at the sight of seaweed on my very first attempt to snorkel in St. Thomas. Seaweed. The second time I tried to snorkel (years later), I panicked and made a beeline to the shore after seeing a stingray at least 10 feet below me at Cinnamon Bay in St. John.

    2014-04-10_0001

    In addition to my fears of certain ocean creatures, I’m also a really (really really) excitable person about almost everything. Especially animals. If I see a turtle while I’m diving, I’m pretty certain I’ll gasp and squeal and flail about just out of sheer joy. Gasping, squealing, and flailing are probably diving no-nos. I have no idea if I can stay calm while diving, and that’s apparently one of the key ingredients: stay calm, and breathe.

    So I decided that the best thing for me to do was to first see if, in fact, I would be fine with diving in a pool. Our local dive shop offers a Discover Scuba Diving (DSD) class where you learn basic skills, equipment usage, and safety in a short classroom session, and then you practice in a pool. Chris and I signed up together (the class was probably unnecessary for him, but he was sweet to humor me) and we completed the class last weekend. Just as I expected, I had a ton of fun in the pool! Getting used to the heavy, complicated equipment was easier than I thought, and we did the basic skills with ease. We learned how to descend, adjust our buoyancy, clear a flooded mask, retrieve a lost regulator, and swim with fins. The only catch was that when our class arrived at the rec center, we found out the pool was double-booked, so the shallow end was already in use and we’d have to complete all of our training in the deep end! It definitely rattled everyone in the class, but it turned out to be easy and so fun (for most people). Chris and I were quickly comfortable at the bottom of the pool, and we hung out just breathing and practicing skills for nearly an hour.

    2014-04-10_0002

    Whether or not I can translate the skills and my comfort level to the open water is TBD, so we’re going to hold off on full certification for now since it’s a fairly big investment in time and money for something I’m not even sure I’ll enjoy! We are signed up for another DSD class in Grand Cayman, where we’ll review the skills in the pool and then go on an open water reef dive off of a boat. If I fall in love with it, I can go forward with the certification and I’ll already have some skills under my belt. If I hate it, I can at least say I tried. I’m excited and nervous, but I’m going to try to stay calm and not chicken out. I think the reef dive is about 30 minutes long, so it’s not really likely that I’ll get stung or bitten right?! Wish me luck!

    *I do realize SCUBA is actually an acronym and was originally always notated in all caps, but after spending some time on dive-related message boards, it seems most divers commonly type scuba as a lowercase word.