This magical display I found at a library in Prague is a book-lover’s dream – to be surrounded by books as far as the eye can see! I can only imagine the amount of time it took to construct this tunnel of titles.
Tag: Europe
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Crossing the Charles Bridge to Malá Strana
While we did spend considerably more time on the Old Town side of Prague, Chris and I crossed the Charles Bridge over to Malá Strana to get a feel for the area otherwise known as Lesser Town. And the bridge is a destination in itself, so on the way we spent time exploring the surrounding statues, shopping the artists’ stands, and listening to a talented busker or two.
As soon as we crossed over, the first thing we tackled was the climb up the Lesser Town Bridge Tower to survey the bridge from up high. Admission was 90 CZK each (about $3.50 USD), and we considered it an inexpensive workout for the day. I lost count of how many steps take you to the top, but it’s several flights. The 360-degree view is totally worth it!
From the east side of the tower you can watch people milling about on the bridge, and from the west side you have a rooftop view of Malá Strana and the Prague Castle. We visited the tower on a Friday just after lunch and we had the lookout almost completely to ourselves.
After we took as many photos as our hearts desired, we walked over to see a quirky attraction (I love those) – the narrowest street in Prague. Traffic lights regulate passage through the narrow walkway, though we noticed not everyone obeyed the stop/walk rules. I wonder if someone could be issued a ticket for running the stop light! (I patiently waited my turn and followed the signal.)
Another fun sight in Malá Strana, the Lennon wall has been continually graffitied since 1980 with Beatles song lyrics, John Lennon portraits, anti-Communist messages of peace, and other random tags. As a stop on walking tours and a perfectly Instagrammable backdrop, we shared the wall with at least fifty other people that day.
In addition to charming cobblestone streets and pastel-painted Baroque buildings, I was surprised to discover a small series of lovely waterway canals on this side of the city. River tours are offered, though we didn’t end up taking one. I did, however, buy a watercolor painting of the paddle wheel in the photo below.
As we planned it, our next stop in Lesser Town would have been to see Prague Castle. Sadly, I came down with a cold on this last day of our two-week trip, and at this moment I completely ran out of steam. We decided not to tour the castle and to give ourselves the perfect excuse to return to Prague in the future.
We crossed back over the Karlův most, spotting more details along the bridge, and returned to our flat to pack for the trip back home. Prague turned out to win the title of favorite city on this trip and I can’t wait to return again someday!
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Old Town Prague
After five days of unseasonably hot weather in Austria and Slovakia, and five days of dreary rainy weather in Germany, Chris and I gratefully welcomed a sunny and mild forecast for our (almost) four days in Czech Republic. The first day we checked out Pilsen and got settled into our Airbnb in Prague. The second day we hung out with Jan from Eating Prague on the Brews and Views Tour. With our remaining two days in Prague, we decided to split our time between Old Town and Mala Strana.
Our perfectly located Airbnb was situated on the Old Town side just a couple of blocks from the Charles Bridge and steps from the Old Town Square. We enjoyed easy access to so many cafes, bars, restaurants, and city sights. Even on the days that weren’t officially designated as Old Town day, we wandered this area of Prague frequently.
One of my favorite activities ended up being the climb to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower for sprawling views of the city. For 120czk each (around $5 USD), we went to the observation deck and took in a stunning bird’s eye view of Prague. The winding ramp up and down felt a little less tiring than if it were stairs (like the Belfry in Bruges), and there is even an elevator available if needed.
Being two big technology geeks, we couldn’t miss out on seeing the biggest private collection of Apple products in the world, so we popped into the Apple Museum for a quick spin through the exhibit. I took a stroll down memory lane by revisiting Apple items from my childhood (my very first computer was the Apple IIe). At 9 euro per adult, it’s a decent rainy day activity and a must-see for tech-lovers. The collection is extensive, but it only took us an hour to see the whole gallery.
For lunch we hit Joy Burger to cure a cheeseburger and beer craving. We loved the burgers here, and I highly recommend the Thick Farmer Fries for a specially seasoned twist on a classic side.
And in the sweets department, you may have seen a photo of this very popular treat floating around on Pinterest. I saw it, too, and simply couldn’t resist trying it. Suffice it to say, I was underwhelmed. (Sorry to burst any dessert bubbles!) The fried dough cone was okay, and the ice cream reminded me of McDonald’s soft-serve. It was fine, but not that special. Womp womp.
There were plenty of other sweet treats in Prague that we enjoyed more than the above trdelnik though. Eating Prague pointed us to a gingerbread bakery, Perníčkův sen, where the smell alone is worth a visit. I wish my blog had smell-o-vision so I could share that experience with you! In addition to smells, this shop is an excellent spot for procuring delicious souvenirs for people back home (or for yourself).
Bakeshop is also an excellent source for sugary goodness or breakfast pastries. I became all too used to our daily cappuccino-and-pastry breakfast ritual on this trip.
And for anyone who still insists on trying the trdelnik, I recommend getting one from Good Food Bakery near the Charles Bridge. It apparently makes a world of difference where you purchase a trdelnik (the one below was MUCH better), and I personally liked the chocolate-lined pastry vs. the one filled with ice cream.
If liquid treats are more your speed, then point yourself toward Hemingway Bar and order a fun craft cocktail in this retro-themed lounge. In a cozy atmosphere that draws inspiration from the famous writer’s bar life, we sampled Hemingway’s Gasoline, the Rested Nail, and a B-Celebration No. 2 served in the funkiest little teapot.
Last but of course not least, we finished up the day with dinner at a 15th-century restaurant that brews several beers on-site. Pivovar U Tří Růží offers a menu of local cuisine and comfort food classics that warm the soul. I recommend starting out with the beer board, a selection of smoked meats, pickled vegetables, and onion bread. Pair it with one of the house beers brewed via old brewing tradition and you’ve got yourself a true Czech experience.
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Eating Prague’s Brews and Views Tour
Chris and I certainly had our priorities straight when we arrived in Prague, the last stop on our Central Europe trip – I had signed us up for Eating Prague’s newest tour, Brews and Views, on our first full day in the capital city. I figured it would be the best way to get introduced to the lay of the land and the best of the beers, and I was right! Brews and views abound, we worked our way through Prague drinking Czech beers, learning about Czech beer culture, snacking on delicious food pairings, and taking in some of the most gorgeous views across the city.
We started out with a beautiful walk across the river and up to Letna Park which overlooks the Old Town side of Prague. We met our awesome and super knowledgeable guide, Jan, and the rest of our group for a Gambrinus in the park. It doesn’t get better than beer and fresh air in a park overlooking one of the most stunning city views.
(Hey America, please take note – drinking a beer outside in a setting as lovely as Letna Park is a truly wonderful thing. Let’s adopt this drinking outdoors policy!)
I don’t want to give away all the tour’s secrets and actually I couldn’t even if I wanted to – each of the stops is depending on the availability and the schedule for the day – but Jan showed us an amazing array of hidden gems off the beaten path. We hit up several bars, restaurants, pubs, and nooks that we probably wouldn’t have discovered on our own.
As for the star of the show, the beer, we tasted everything from light beers, reds, IPAs, dark stouts, and pilsners. Chris and I tend to get a little nerdy with our beer tasting and we typically take notes and rate them via the Untapped app, but on this tour we sat back and let Jan tell us about each beer and we simply enjoyed the drinks and the company.
Off the top of my head, I remember the Gambrinus, the Bernard red lager, and a citrusy IPA at T-Anker to name a few. There were about eight or so additional tastings after that, and a lot of these were full glasses, so I hope you’ll forgive me for not remembering the name of every single beer. You’ll just have to go on the tour for yourself!
Not only did we sample so many of Prague’s finest beers, we also learned about beer-food pairings. I definitely recommend coming on this tour with an appetite! We expected a snack here and there as indicated in the description, but we didn’t expect being able to skip dinner that evening because we were full and happy from all the tasty food on the tour. Not pictured: the bun-wrapped sausage that was so delicious Chris and I went back the next day to get another one.
In addition to the beer, the food, and a fantastic guide, part of what made the tour was the company. You automatically have something very specific in common with the other members of the tour, a love for beer, so it’s easy to bond over the course of the 3.5 hours (or in our case, 6 hours, since a bunch of us hung around together after the tour ended).
This was hands-down one of the best tours we’ve ever been on, and I can’t recommend it enough. Tickets were 65 euros each and that included all of the generous pours and a copious amount of snacks throughout the afternoon. (Seriously, don’t eat a big meal right before you show up for this tour!) Tours run Tuesday through Saturday at 2:30pm. We ended up walking approximately 2 miles/3.2 km or so, and it was at a leisurely pace. Sometimes we even got to walk around with a beer.
Up next, we dedicated a day to the Old Town side of Prague and then a day to the Mala Strana side. Stay tuned for those two posts!
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A Pit Stop in Pilsen
As fans of visiting breweries all over the world, of course Chris and I had to stop in Pilsen, Czech Republic on the way to Prague from Munich. Home to the Pilsner Urquell brewery, Pilsen is about 90 kilometers (56 miles) outside of Prague, so it’s certainly possible as an easy day trip from the capital, too.
A note for anyone driving through from Germany though – you’ll need to stop into a gas station before crossing the border to purchase a toll sticker that allows you to drive on the expressways. We stopped for gas along Rt. 6 before entering CR and asked for the decal at the counter. I even learned how to ask for it in German just in case, but the attendant understood what I meant when I first asked in simple English. Our decal was good for 10 days and it was around 310 CZK ($12-ish USD). I filled it out, placed it on the inside bottom right-hand corner of the windshield, and we were good to go.
We started out that morning thinking we would stop in Pilsen for both lunch and a visit to the brewery, but getting out of Munich took a
littlelot longer than we anticipated due to a misunderstanding we had with our GPS, so lunch ended up being at a McDonald’s (gasp) somewhere along the road. We only ended up with enough time to pop into the brewery for a beer and to peruse the gift shop so our visit was short and sweet, much like this blog post!
Pilsner Urquell has a huge visitor center, offers extensive brewery tours, and there’s a restaurant on-site, so we just might have to return to Pilsen one day for the whole kit and caboodle. But for that day we were happy simply to relax, buy a t-shirt, and enjoy our first Czech beer in Czech Republic.
Our two-week Central European itinerary ended with a few awesome days in Prague, which turned out to be my favorite spot of the whole trip, and those posts are up next!