When Chris and I visited Toronto, we knew we only had a prescribed amount of time to accomplish several things on our must-do list. I had heard of PATH, Toronto’s underground mall, and it was going to be our back-up plan if the weather didn’t cooperate. As luck would have it, bright sunny skies and perfect temperatures kept us happily exploring the city above ground, but we did see this elaborate PATH entrance when we stopped by the Hockey Hall of Fame. With stunning architecture like that I would have loved to see the rest of the mall, but we’ll have to add it to the list for next time!
Tag: road trips
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Ireland Snapshot
Last year, I started doing “snapshot” posts from our travels with a summary of superlatives and sidebars. It’s a fun way to me to reflect back on specific moments, so to continue that tradition here is my Ireland and Northern Ireland snapshot!
Best Moment
I’m not a huge fan of crowds. Is anyone, really? But I feel like I have an especially hard time with big groups of noisy people in certain places. So when we went to our first stop on the Ring of Kerry, the Torc Waterfall, and found it completely void of another human being, my heart swelled in that moment of absolute serenity. Don’t get me wrong – it’s not that I don’t like being with people or sharing an experience with others, but there is a time and a place, and too often a rowdy group of people has ruined the vibe for me. That didn’t happen here, and I loved absorbing every sound of the forest and watching the gentle flow of the waterfall. That, and the Ring of Kerry day in general was one of our favorites.
I also loved all of our interactions with locals. Everyone in Ireland was heart-warmingly welcoming and friendly, and I just soaked it up.
Worst Moment
Ireland didn’t have a standout worst moment, but there was an afternoon in Dublin when I got a little cranky (it happens). Chris and I were riding the hop-on-hop-off bus and we accidentally hopped off at an unplanned stop where we ended up wandering pretty far from the bus route. Normally that would have been completely fine and even fun, but it started to rain. A lot. And my feet started to hurt. A lot. And I lost my bus ticket and had to buy a new one. Then, when we went to the Guinness Storehouse, I lost Chris’s new Jameson umbrella. (He was perfectly nice about it and assured me it wasn’t a big deal, but I felt bad.) We ended up taking an overpriced carriage ride to our next stop because we left the Storehouse after the bus stopped running, and we didn’t notice that taxi cabs were around the corner from the expensive horse buggies. Ugh. So it was just the culmination of several little things that added up to one bad mood for a couple of hours. It doesn’t blemish my feelings about Dublin at all though; we still had an amazing time despite my crankypants attitude and an inclination to lose stuff that day.
Best Meal
Irish stew, brown soda bread, shepherd’s pie – I loved almost every single thing we ate in Ireland. As I expected, I discovered I’m not a fan of black pudding, but everything else was delicious. A millionaire bar from The Good Room Cafe in Adare and a scone from Skelligs Chocolate in County Kerry both earned the best food spot in a two-way tie. Neither one was a meal, but I couldn’t stop thinking about both of them so I think they belong in this category.
Something We Learned
Chris loves whisky (no ‘e’), and our tours at the Irish Whiskey Museum and the Old Jameson Distillery gave us a good introduction to the history and arduous process of making his favorite spirit.
We’re Thankful We Packed
Light. We each brought a carry-on suitcase and a backpack only, so we didn’t have to check any luggage. It was also helpful not to have a giant suitcase to lug up the many stairs at all of the B&Bs where we stayed each night. I’ll follow up with more details about what I packed for two weeks after I finish my Scotland posts (since it was the same trip).
We Didn’t Need To Bring
Our PacSafe came in handy on our last trip to Vieques, but we didn’t need it on this trip and didn’t end up using it once.
Trip Regrets
I regret that we couldn’t stay longer! And I regret losing Chris’s umbrella since it seems I can’t order a replacement for him – Jameson doesn’t ship to the U.S. so I’m not sure how to get my hands on one. Sigh! What I don’t regret is spreading our trip out over so much ground. Many resources recommended against it, but I love the combination of areas that we saw and we had a fabulous week.
Reasons To Go Back
My list of reasons to return to the Emerald Isle is constantly growing! There are so many parts of the country that we missed and would love to see on a future trip: Cork, Dingle, Skellig Michael, The Burren, the Arran Islands, Wicklow Mountains National Park, and on and on and on. We saw so much, but would love to see a whole lot more.
Favorite Photos
Chris’s favorite photo is of Hore Abbey in County Tipperary, as seen from a walking path behind the Rock of Cashel.
And my favorite image is this simple one of a brightly colored building adorned with flower baskets. The cheery color and the flowers remind me of so many small towns we visited in Ireland.
I had a hard time deciding on a favorite image though, because there were so many great photo opportunities throughout the country. I had a blast (a quiet blast) taking pictures in the Long Room at Trinity College, and of course it was fun capturing images of the iconic Cliffs of Moher and the Giant’s Causeway. So can we consider these images very close runners-up?!
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The Bed and Breakfast Scene in Ireland
When it comes to getting our travel snooze on, Chris and I tend to stay in vacation rentals for longer-term travel and hotels when we hop around from place to place. For Ireland, however, the guidebooks and travel websites I consulted consistently recommended the bed and breakfast route so we decided to give it a go. I’m
sort ofthe Goldilocks of sleep accommodations with my light sleeper tendencies and a need for a fairly sound-proof room, but I went into the experiment with an open mind (and some sleep aids if needed).That said, I wanted a sure thing for a couple of nights when we arrived in Dublin because Chris needed to be one-hundred percent rested before driving a car. And I needed to be rested in order to navigate, look for photo ops, and make funny jokes to entertain Chris. So before I get to the B&Bs, I have to mention our fabulous hotel, the Radisson Blu Royal Dublin.
From a much appreciated early check-in to smooth check-out, we received impeccable service and we were so comfortable in our room. The bathroom in particular was gorgeous.
My plan worked, because we left the Radisson Blu rested, recharged, and jet lag-free. Once we were on the road, we stayed exclusively in B&Bs all over the country. We spent two nights in Killarney, and one night each in Galway, Donegal, and Belfast. I’ve rounded up my photos and reviews to post here!
Woodlawn House – Killarney
Woodlawn House was officially our first bed and breakfast experience ever. We chose Woodlawn for proximity to the town center and the Ring of Kerry route, but I didn’t want to be too close to all of the action since I need a little peace and quiet for sleeping (see Goldilocks reference, above).
When the owner, Wayne, greeted us with a friendly smile and took our bags at the front door upon arrival, I instantly warmed up to the charm of staying in a B&B. He even sat down with us in the living room to go over details about the B&B, the town, and he gave us personalized tips for our next day’s trip around the Ring of Kerry. Wayne’s advice was spot-on and his recommendations were some of the highlights of our County Kerry tour.
Our room was simple, clean, and situated perfectly within the house on the top level in the back (per my request for a quiet room). The noise was something I was a little worried about, not knowing the ins-and-outs of B&Bs, but we didn’t hear a peep.
In addition to the sweet little beverage station, we had everything we needed in the room with one exception: a larger bed! Chris and I are used to our spacious king-size bed at home, and this one was a double, not even queen-size. I’m sure if I had mentioned it we could have moved to another room, but I didn’t want to give up our super quiet location. Plus we were so tired at the end of each day that it didn’t really matter in the end. We crashed pretty hard both nights.
The en-suite bathroom followed suit with the clean and simple theme, with a bonus window for natural light. My only teeny tiny nitpick? No hooks! I always want hooks in the bathroom, at least one or two on the back of the door. But to be fair, this is a common issue in hotels and vacation rentals alike. I rarely find enough hooks in the bathroom, and it’s such an easy/inexpensive addition. (I wonder if no one else needs hooks like I do?)
Not pictured: the beautiful dining room where we enjoyed a lovely breakfast on the second morning. (The first morning we left early and went straight to the Ring of Kerry.) I didn’t know what to expect from the “breakfast” part of B&B, but Woodlawn offered a huge spread of breads, cereals, jams, and juice/coffee, in addition to hot menu items limited to pretty much anything you can think of for breakfast. I could get used to this!
The Herons Rest – Galway
I have to admit, the words “boutique” and “gourmet” on The Herons Rest website caught my eye and I wondered what differences we’d see at our next B&B in Galway. See that blue building on the left in the photo below? That’s The Herons Rest, and that window on the roof was our room.
Because we showed up right on the late edge of check-in time, we didn’t get to interact much with the staff, but we were shown to our room on the top floor where we found, to quote Ann Perkins and Leslie Knope, “just amenities everywhere. I love amenities.”
Stacks of fluffy towels, robes, port wine, still water, craft soaps, cotton rounds, and even make-up remover wipes. Amenities in every nook. Plus we had use of that pop-out balcony roof window for stunning views of the river.
On the downside, the room felt just a bit cramped, especially for Chris due to the pitched ceiling, and the parking situation wasn’t ideal. We were instructed to park on the street as long as we fed the meter first thing in the morning, or park a block away at another hotel’s garage. We decided to park in the hotel garage, which meant schlepping our stuff a bit of a distance. But in the plus column, in addition to all of the amenities, the top floor location provided us (me?) with the quiet that I need to sleep, and the gourmet breakfast was superb. Um…unfortunately I ate it too quickly to take photos, but I did at least grab a picture of these pretty muffins.
The Arches Country House – Donegal
There are plenty of choices for accommodation right in Donegal town close to the pubs and shops, but I was curious about The Arches Country House based on their glowing reviews. With only a ten-minute drive from town, I figured we could give countryside living a try for one night and I’m glad we did. I could have stayed here all week.
We stayed in Room 1 upstairs, and we had so much wonderful space we hardly knew what to do with it. This two-bedroom room with dual sitting areas would be great for a family or for a group of friends, but we also enjoyed it just for the sake of spreading out and having some breathing room.
The incredibly comfortable bed and perfectly quiet surroundings had me rethinking our early schedule the next day. And I can’t forget to mention Noreen, the owner and our gracious hostess for our stay. We thoroughly adored her hospitality and cooking.
The bathroom was bright, clean, and very spacious as well, with a shower (not pictured) big enough for a horse.
I specifically want to point out one of my favorite details about the room though – outlets! There were plenty of electrical outlets everywhere: next to the bed on both sides, next to the vanity, and on the walls. Chris and I love gadgets, so naturally we love outlets which are sometimes hard to come by when we stay overnight in various places.
If we were staying longer, I would have loved to curl up in a chair at the window with a cup of tea and gaze at this view. If you’re looking for somewhere utterly tranquil to stay in County Donegal, this is it.
Bay Cottage – Belfast
I hardly feel qualified to review Bay Cottage since we were only at the inn for less than twelve hours, but I wanted to mention it because of the convenience to the Belfast International Airport. Owner Elizabeth sweetly helped us get settled and we appreciated her warm reception even though we were atypical sleep-and-run guests! We couldn’t even stick around for breakfast. Our flight to Scotland left at around 8am the next morning, so being as close to the airport as possible was a huge help, especially since we were driving ourselves there and returning the rental car. The drive from Belfast City to the airport would have been about 30 minutes and possibly stressful in the dark. We were up and at em’ around 5am, and it only took minutes to get to the rental car return area from Bay Cottage.
I took a quick photo of our room (the Blue Room) after dark, but please pop by the website to see cozier photos of the Cottage.
Final verdict on B&Bs in general? I’m so glad we tried this approach to our accommodations in Ireland! I had fun chatting with the owners and with other guests, and it was interesting to see the differences between the inns. I couldn’t get over the value for our money; in most cases the B&B option saved us quite a bit of money compared to a hotel stay in the same location. Chris wasn’t as keen on the B&B lifestyle though. He said, “When we go out and come back, I feel like I’m sneaking into someone’s house.” So I can’t say we’ll only stay in B&Bs from now on, but it’s nice to have another viable option in certain locations.
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Photo Friday – Black Pudding
I’m not a vegetarian although sometimes I do naturally gravitate towards a meat-free day. I eat chicken, beef, and pork with the occasional seafood and pretty much don’t go outside of that list. I’m also someone who really needs my protein to have an abstract quality – I don’t do well with being served a dish that still has eyeballs, for example. And while I require (as much as possible) that the source was free-range, organic, pastured, and treated as humanely as possible, I prefer not to know other process details.
That said, the full Irish breakfast was a bit of a challenge for me when it was time to try the black pudding. I recently saw a segment on the Food Network on exactly how black pudding, sometimes called blood sausage, is made. I completely understand that it’s a matter of what one is used to eating, and that for many countries black pudding isn’t something to be squeamish about, but before my trip to Ireland I had never consumed anything with pig’s blood as the main ingredient.
I promised myself I’d experience the full Irish breakfast though, and I ate it! I actually ate it twice – the first time I forgot to take a photo (darn it!), so I ordered the dish again at the The Arches Country House where Noreen served us this gorgeous meal. Okay, technically both times I gave half of the pudding to Chris, but I still think it counts.
If you’re wondering whether or not I am now a fan of black pudding, um…no. I still can’t get past the ingredients, but it was a huge step for me to try it! I’m not usually good about trying new foods, but I’m pushing myself to get out of my comfort zone (within reason). And in case you can’t tell from the photo, the rest of the breakfast was fantastic.
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The Lockhart: A Bar for Wizards and Muggles Alike
As any dedicated Harry Potter fan would, I felt it necessary to thoroughly investigate a new establishment in Toronto that has recently been all abuzz as a Harry Potter-themed bar. Chris and I were going to be in Toronto anyway, so when I heard about The Lockhart it was an easier decision to pop by than the Sorting Hat deciding to put Draco into Slytherin.
The Lockhart has received quite a bit of press worldwide and at only a month after they opened their doors the bar has a huge following. We actually almost passed on visiting because several reviewers complained about the long wait to get into the bar, and a few people reported that they weren’t even able to get in after an hour or longer. We decided to give it a try right at opening time, so we showed up in West End at 4:50pm on a Sunday and waited for the doors to open at 5pm. Chris and I were first to get there, but not even a minute after we arrived a dozen people showed up to wait with us. After we were inside and seated, the line outside continued to grow.
The nods to the Potter world are subtle, and I loved that. The Lockhart isn’t straight-up Harry Potter-themed, but it does look like it would fit right into Diagon Alley as one of the pubs where wizards and witches might congregate over an elixir. Easter egg drink titles on the menu will entertain hardcore Harry groupies (and one is said to be so obscure that you’ll earn a free drink if you guess the meaning), but muggles would be none the wiser. Other subtle nuggets from the wizarding world such as the stag logo or the “all was well” neon sign could mean anything to those unfamiliar with Harry Potter, so it makes for a fairly neutral spot catering to fanatics and non-fans alike. A few of the drink titles are reserved for Star Trek or Dr. Who fans, but again, subtly so. The only thing not-so-subtle in the bar was me with my camera, geeking out over the photo ops.
I’m a fan of specialty craft cocktails, and The Lockhart’s menu didn’t disappoint. Chris tried the Big Bad Wolf with bacon-infused bourbon, The Beach House (yum), and we split the Befuddlement Draft, served in a crystal ice bucket with two goblets and a ladle. It’s both a shared cocktail and a fun potions class experiment complete with exciting pyrotechnics. The Befuddlement Draft requires a trip to your Gringotts vault at $32 each, but it’s worth the experience to ooo-and-ahh over it one time and then move onto something else like The Shacklebolt.
For a few directly related Harry Potter references, be sure to visit the loo where you’ll find out that the chamber of secrets is indeed open. You can also search the whole bar for a hidden Deathly Hallows symbol. I found it, but I don’t want to spoil the fun for anyone who wants to discover it for themselves. Let me know if you’re itching to hear where it’s located.
So whether you’re a Potterhead or someone who appreciates creative cocktails, The Lockhart has something for everyone. The tapas menu will tide you over if you’re in need of some snacks – we thoroughly enjoyed the Deep Fried Jalapeño Mac & Cheese Sliders. The staff were all Hufflepuff-level dedicated, friendly, and seemed genuinely excited to be there.
I don’t know if it’s worth a trip to Toronto only for the sake of stopping by The Lockhart, but it’s absolutely worth your time if you plan to be in the area. I’m glad we went! Try hitting the bar when the doors open to avoid the line, or be prepared to wait a bit for a spot in this cozy pub. And brush up on your HP knowledge so you can figure out that obscure reference to earn a free drink!