Tag: villas

  • Isla Mujeres: A (Very) Tiny Slice of Mexico

    Isla Mujeres: A (Very) Tiny Slice of Mexico

    In my progression of getting over a fear of the ocean, I decided last year that for my next challenge I wanted to literally go BIG and swim alongside the largest fish in the water, the whale shark. My research pointed me to a few places where one might be able to find whale sharks, including Isla Mujeres, a small island off the coast of Mexico. Only a three-hour (and direct!) flight away from Washington-Dulles and a short ferry ride from Cancun, Isla Mujeres intrigued Chris and me since we love tiny islands. Plus, neither of us had been to Mexico since we were kids, so off we went last week!

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    Our tradition of staying at the perfect beach villa instead of a hotel or resort continued when we discovered Casa Marchon in Punta Sur. Tucked away on the quieter end of the island, but still only a few minutes away from the bustle and convenience of the main town, Casa Marchon totally suited us for a week on Isla Mujeres.

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    We were spoiled all week by having not one but TWO pools in which to beat the heat, and giant protective umbrellas for those of us with fairer skin. When we weren’t swimming with whale sharks or exploring the island, Chris and I could be found relaxing (or goofing around) at either pool.

    When I planned this trip, I initially wanted to include a day trek to the mainland to visit Chichen Itza, but as we got closer to departure I hemmed and hawed about going as I watched the July forecast rise in temperatures. Chris and I pretty much began to melt once our plane touched down in Mexico, and we ultimately decided not to stray too far from the relief of a pool or the ocean. We’ll simply have to visit the world-wonder another time.

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    Though we saw plenty of scooters and a handful of cars in the mix, the main mode of transportation for Isla Mujeres visitors is via golf cart. You can pop over from Cancun for the day and get around by taxi, or to up the fun factor you can rent a golf cart (or scooter) for the day and see the island on your own time. We rented one for the week and carted all over the island, up and down as many streets as we could find. At a whopping five miles long, it doesn’t take much time to travel the entire island, even in a golf cart. (Note to self: GoPro portraits can be a little unflattering, especially to the arms. Yikes.)

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    Despite the lack of a/c, we really enjoyed our little golf cart. I brought a piece of red ribbon and tied it to our cart so we could remember which one was ours when we parked in town. I mean, I guess I could have memorized the license plate number, but…after a few margaritas, it’s just easier to spot a ribbon. Toting our snorkel gear and getting our groceries (read: cases of beer) home from the store proved to be a bit trickier on the golf cart vs. a car, but we were up for the challenge.

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    Speaking of groceries, one of the biggest differences between Isla Mujeres and some of our other island experiences was the huge supermarket, Chedraui. I didn’t even have to pack my usual arsenal of full-size sunscreen bottles because we were able to find everything at the store! Well, everything except relish and salsa. And even better, the sunscreen didn’t cost more than it would at home.

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    Typically Chris and I shop for food so we can eat breakfasts and lunches at “home” and then go out for dinners, but we simply couldn’t help ourselves with all of the amazing food all over the island. We loved trying the restaurants, and marveled at the amazingly inexpensive cost of food and drinks compared to other islands. And the food was so gorgeous I actually remembered to take pictures this time! I may have enough to scrape together a blog post solely on Isla Mujeres restaurants. Stay tuned.

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    When we weren’t blissing out by the pool or eating tacos/drinking mojitos, we tried to see as much of the island as we could, from North Beach down to the Mayan ruins of Punta Sur (more on that soon). I adored the cheerful colors everywhere we looked, and managed to almost get used to the 110-degree heat index by the end of the week.

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    Coming up next: we head out to sea in search of whale sharks!

  • Bienvenidos a Vieques

    I have literally been waiting for this trip for years. And I can legitimately use the word literally there because my sister and I started planning this trip early in 2014. We officially booked a villa in Vieques exactly 412 days in advance, so my sister, brother-in-law, Chris, and I have been counting down the days ever since.

    I have to admit I was a little hesitant to book a Caribbean trip during the start of hurricane season since Chris and I have encountered them so frequently, but Mother Nature must have decided to give us a break this year. Other than one cloudy day with a few showers, the weather was pretty great and storm-free all week. We had electricity the entire time, and none of our activities were canceled. Perhaps our hurricane bad luck spell has been broken!

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    Chris and I met up with Stephanie and Arne in San Juan and then the four of us took a tiny prop plane together from mainland Puerto Rico to the much smaller island of Vieques. I think this plane was even smaller than the one Chris and I took to Ambergris Caye. (That’s my beautiful sister sitting behind the pilot!)

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    When we arrived on Vieques, we picked up our rental car (a necessity on the island) and headed to Villa Chavaniac to settle in for the week. We were all impressed at first sight – the villa was even more beautiful than the photos online and we were happy to call it home for seven days. My geometry might be slightly off, but I’d estimate that we had at least a 180-degree view of the ocean and we could see clear to the mainland as well as Culebra in the distance. The water below our villa provided a soothing soundtrack at night as we listened to the waves crash against the seawall. A rocky beach perfect for seashell hunting and crab watching stretched off in both directions. It was the perfect paradise setting.

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    Villa Chavaniac is situated just minutes from the colorful town of Isabel Segunda where we found stores to supply our kitchen at home and a few bars and restaurants to visit throughout the week. Isabel II is perhaps not the easiest place to navigate at first, but we eventually got the hang of the little one-way streets and quirky traffic obstacles like dogs, cats, chickens, children, and friendly locals chatting in the road. We found some delicious eats at Coqui Fire Cafe (so good – don’t miss it if you’re on the island!), Taverna, and Cafe Mamasonga.

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    We enjoyed wildlife spotting around the island on a daily basis. You really do have to keep your eyes peeled for creatures in the roads while you’re driving. Sometimes it was an obvious band of horses, while other times it was a tiny hard-to-spot mongoose scurrying across, or a small kitten hanging out on the street’s edge.

    Before we arrived on the island, I expected to see the horses. I read that they are generally everywhere on Vieques. And despite my assumption that they are wild, we were told that for the most part they actually have owners who locate them as needed. We saw a few locals using horses as transportation, but mostly the horses (and other animals) roamed free.

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    Some of my favorite meals during the week were scored on the cheap from food trucks around the island. Chris and I shared an amazing (and huge!) Cuban sandwich at Sol Food off of Rt. 997 on the way to the southern beaches. It was there that I also tried my very first empanada and I’m hooked. We also tried pastelillos at the Pastelillos de Alcapurrias truck in Esperanza and loved them, too. To be honest I’m not quite sure I understand the difference between empanadas vs. pastelillos, but I think it has to do with the size? Either way, both are delicious!

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    Speaking of Esperanza, the other town on Vieques, we spent a few evenings there walking along the Malecón enjoying the views and the beach bars. We all sampled the fare and drinks at Bananas before our kayaking adventure on Mosquito Bay (more on that in a future post).

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    Upcoming in the next few posts, I’ll talk about our search for the best beach, a kayaking trip on the bioluminescent bay in the dark, and snorkeling at Mosquito Pier!

  • 18 Degrees North on Ambergris Caye

    18 Degrees North on Ambergris Caye

    Well, hello! Chris and I just returned from Belize which was our very first visit ever to Central America. I have quite a few photos to show you, if nothing else but to prove that I did some things well outside of my comfort zone. In fact, that was my own special mission for this whole trip – to keep working on getting over my fear of the ocean. Early last year when Chris and I were deciding what places to visit in 2015, he suggested Belize off of our must-travel list. In my research, I discovered that the country is home to the second largest coral reef system in the world, and thus I set out to plan a trip that included as much time in and on the water as possible. And that’s exactly what we did!

    Once we landed in Belize, our week of relaxation and adventure started off with a mini-adventure in itself – a 15-minute turboprop flight from Belize City onto the island of Ambergris Caye.

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    From San Pedro, we were escorted to our villa on a boat captained by Ernesto, the awesome resident caretaker/guide/boat captain extraordinaire at 18 Degrees North. More on this later in a few upcoming posts, but Ernesto’s services are one of the main reasons we chose to stay at 18 Degrees North. When I saw that he offered private personal tours of exactly every single spot we wanted to see in Belize I was sold.

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    A short boat ride later, we arrived at the villa to sunny skies, warm breeze, this pool, and this gorgeous view. 18 Degrees North is situated several miles north of San Pedro beyond where the road ends, making it a very quiet location. So yeah, we were happy to set up camp here for the week.

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    In addition to the amazing view and refreshing pool, we enjoyed interacting with the resident animals around the villa. Not only did we have several lizards and birds to watch for entertainment…

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    …we also had the company of two super sweet guard dogs, Rojo and Taco Bell. They kept us company around the pool and they alerted us to the occasional stranger/passer-by. I was amazed at how the dogs knew to differentiate between us trusted guests and anyone else not staying at the villa. We loved their presence and would have brought them home with us if we could.

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    Perhaps my favorite spot on the property though was the grass-thatched palapa down at the end of the pier. Chris and I relaxed here daily, enjoying a beer, listening to music on the Jambox, and watching the boats pass by every now and then. The constant breeze made it comfortable and bug-free.

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    On our last day, I managed to get up early enough to catch the sunrise, snap a photo, and reflect on the wonderful week we spent in paradise. Stay tuned for a few Belize-related posts where we visit Mayan ruins, go scuba diving (!), and snorkel all up and down the island.

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  • Photo Friday – One of the Locals

    Just a short and sweet one today! This cute kitten was spying on me in St. John while I was photographing some flora around the villa, so I turned my camera on her!

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  • Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    People often ask me why Chris and I stay in a rental villa/condo on some of our travels instead of a hotel, and if it’s much more expensive. We’ve done vacation rentals about a dozen times now in the last couple of years and the answer is that sometimes it makes more sense for us depending on the location and our plans, and no, it’s not necessarily more expensive! It probably just looks super fancypants when you see pictures of an amazing view or a pool with no one else in it, but I promise we’re not paying crazy prices or using any secret magic tricks. Well, I use some tricks to find good places, but I’ll share those with you.

    For anyone who isn’t familiar with Chris and me, we are thirty-somethings who travel a handful of times throughout the year (about 5-6 times in addition to traveling to see family) and our travel budget is in the middle of the road when it comes to accommodations. The short answer is that we really enjoy staying in rental properties for beach and snow vacations, but in this post I’ll break down our process on the when, why and how.

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    When and Why Do We Rent?

    For some trips, especially when the purpose is to unwind, we’ve found that we’re able to relax more when we have some space to ourselves instead of sharing common areas with strangers. I do love people-watching, but sometimes you want chill time by the pool, and other people want to yell and scream and “caaaaannonball” into the pool. At a rental villa, we’re able to control the vibe of our surroundings a little better – we can hang out poolside with our own tunes playing (I absolutely love the Jawbone Jambox for this), or have peace and quiet for reading and relaxing. I’m guessing the rental villa option might be nice for families, too, since you can let the kids be kids without worrying that they’re bothering anyone. Even Chris and I enjoy cannonballing guilt-free without disrupting anyone else. And speaking of disruptions, we’ve never encountered any construction noise while renting a private vacation home, but hotels seem to have renovations going on frequently and it’s harder to avoid the noise.

    Staying in a rental home also immerses us a bit more into local culture since we come and go from a residence in a neighborhood, rather than from a cluster of hotels. I love the feeling of living somewhere new even if it’s only for a week, and it’s fun to pretend that the rental is your own home.

    In addition to beach houses, Chris and I like renting condos for our ski trips since rentals usually get us closer to the lifts with great ski-in/ski-out access. Plus, we have so much stuff with us when we snowboard/ski that it’s nice to be able to spread out and have the extra storage space for coats, boots, and gear. No matter the location or rental type (ski condo, beach villa, etc.) you get a lot more space per dollar when you rent a vacation home instead of a hotel room.

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    On the other hand, if we only need a place to sleep (and not really to hang out), or if we’re going somewhere for a week or more but staying in multiple cities, we stay in hotels. And most vacation rentals have a minimum number of nights per stay, so sometimes a hotel is necessary for a shorter getaway. Hotels definitely have their place in our travels. For us it really just depends on the trip, and I do enjoy certain aspects of hotel stays. It’s so wonderful to have someone make the bed and replace the towels, and who doesn’t love a chocolate on their pillow at night? I also love finding boutique hotels and inns with interesting details. I stayed at a hotel once that included a yellow rubber ducky in each of the bathrooms (21C Hotel pictured below on the left). How fun is that? On our trip to Iceland this summer we’re staying in five different towns and I’m excited about some of the cute little Icelandic hotels where we’ll be staying.

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    How Much Does Renting Cost?

    Here’s the big secret that isn’t a secret: staying in a vacation rental isn’t more expensive than staying at a hotel and sometimes it’s even more cost effective. Just to clarify though, I’m not comparing the costs of our rentals to a hostel or a budget motel. I’m comparing our costs to a nice hotel in the three- or maybe four-star range, but there is a huge selection in rental properties to accommodate almost all budgets. It’s going to be more expensive than a hostel or budget hotel stay though, and some amenities like a pool do increase the cost per night.

    When you first look at the weekly cost of a rental, it might appear more expensive than a hotel room in some cases. However, you have to factor in a few things first to compare apples to apples. The final cost of a hotel room per night always incurs taxes and fees, and then you also have to figure in the cost of parking, internet access, eating most meals out/ordering room service, and amenities like laundry service if needed. The rental doesn’t usually have any hidden fees, but you’ll most likely need to pay sales tax, and a security deposit or cleaning fee (usually refundable if you don’t trash the place).

    We get a lot more bang for our buck in a rental, especially when it comes to things like view, amenities, and square footage. Chris and I always go grocery shopping when we stay in a rental so that we can eat breakfasts and lunches “at home,” which saves a considerable amount of money. We’re able to do our own laundry as well. Plus, I usually look for a rental that is just slightly outside of peak season/in-season, in what is sometimes called the shoulder season, low season or off-season. The rates are often dramatically lower, and as a bonus, it’s usually the perfect combination of fewer crowds and good weather. (Note: I’ve also tried renting well into low season, but there are sometimes drawbacks to looking too far into the off-season. It’s “off” for a reason! The weather could be less than ideal or even problematic, like hurricane season in the Caribbean which we definitely have encountered.)

    Also, if you are able to share a rental with another family, couple or group, obviously the price per square foot is even better assuming you rent an appropriate sized property. It’s usually easy to find rentals that accommodate anywhere from two to twenty people or more.

    Full disclosure: a couple of times we have been lucky to score some great deals. One time we rented a villa in St. John two days in advance because our Outer Banks vacation had been thwarted by Hurricane Irene so I found a villa with a good last-minute deal. And on our most recent trip to Grand Cayman, we ended up in a bigger, nicer villa because the one I originally booked was sold before our trip and the new owners decided to live there year-round. That actually happened two times in the process! Apparently this was an extremely rare and crazy occurrence, so our awesome booking agent offered an upgrade at the same price we had already paid. It was just luck that I had been working through a rental company that time instead of directly with the owner like I usually do. So we did save some money on those two trips. We’ve also gotten in early on rentals that have recently come onto the market and aren’t yet charging their full potential. A couple of places have increased to a price range out of our budget after we’ve stayed there!

    Now, when you factor in the cost of transportation we might be on different pages. I can’t stand the thought of going to a new place and not being able to go see the furthest corner of the country/island/state if I so desire. I will want a rental car no matter where I’m staying, so for us a car is always in our costs and is therefore a break-even in the hotel vs. rental equation. A hotel is more likely to be in a location that is walking distance or a short cab ride to restaurants and shops. They may even have a free shuttle. In a vacation rental, you most likely need to have your own car to get around.

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    How Do We Find Rentals?

    I have several favorite sites to search for rentals including FlipKey, VRBO and HomeAway. I have also used Luxury Retreats (which sounds expensive and it can be, but they do have some smaller, less expensive rentals), and for our trip to Grand Cayman I used Grand Cayman Villas which I found during an online search for Cayman rentals. There are so many other sites, but these are the ones I’ve used.

    I do a ton of research to find the perfect home. Often it gets to the point where I could probably get a job as a real estate agent for the area. Who has that kind of time though, right?! Well, I usually start early, as much as a year or so in advance and the research is fun for me so it’s practically a hobby. To narrow down the listings I just use the website’s filters (price, amenities, location, etc.) and I read the reviews for any red flags. I also search to see if anyone has blogged about their stay at a certain rental, or posted about it on any travel forums. Photos from regular travelers rather than professional photos are often a huge help to see what the place actually looks like without Photoshop. I also search to see if the rental has its own site – often times they do, and there may be more information and/or better photos.

    Once I have a few places narrowed down, I put on my stalker detective hat and try to find each house on Google maps to see what the general location is like. Sometimes this takes some super-sleuthing since the exact address usually isn’t posted, but the general area is, and then I use some clues in the photos to figure out which house it is on the map – roof color, pool shape, and view. The map will tell me things like, how close are the neighbors? Are there restaurants/stores nearby? Is there anything potentially noisy in the area? What will the lighting be like throughout the day? (That last one might be a photographer thing, but seeing what direction the home faces might also tell you if the pool will be in the shade all day, or if you have a good chance of seeing some beautiful sunsets!)

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    Once we find a rental we like, it’s just a matter of booking which usually involves reviewing/signing a contract, paying a deposit (anywhere from 25-50% of the total fee), and sometimes paying a refundable damage deposit. Those three main search sites have an online payment feature that I prefer to use, but if the owner doesn’t offer booking through the site, I always try to pay with a credit card to have a little extra protection if something goes belly up. So far so good, but I’ll report back here if anything sour ever happens! We have two trips booked next year with rentals, and I’m always excited to see how it turns out (i.e., how good I did at finding the perfect place). I’ve also booked through full service villa rental companies, Luxury Retreats and Grand Cayman Villas, where the concierge/agent handles the payments and contracts for you. They can also help with the research if you need assistance finding the perfect rental for your needs.

    So what do you think? Have you ever stayed in a vacation rental? What’s your preference? If you need any help getting started on your search, let me know and I’ll be happy to assist! (Disclaimer: Unless like, hundreds of people take me up on this offer.)

    Update 11/9/2015: I’ve now added Airbnb to my travel tool belt! You can read about our Toronto and Edinburgh Airbnb experiences here.

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