Tag: Europe

  • A Day in Reykjavik

    A Day in Reykjavik

    After a crazy start to our Iceland trip, Chris and I were incredibly happy and relieved to be in Reykjavik, and I instantly fell in love with this adorable, colorful city. Well, okay not instantly. First we took a nap since we landed at 6am and neither of us got any sleep on the plane. But then around lunchtime we felt refreshed and ready to explore, with cameras in hand! Our hotel for the first night was several blocks from the main city center, but a walk in the chilly Iceland air woke us up even more. The day seemed typical of what we expected for Iceland weather in late August – low-to-mid 50s, gray sky thick with clouds, drizzle off-and-on, and a breeze with the occasional gust. The cheerful buildings of Reykjavik made up for what the sky lacked in color though!

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    After walking around a bit, our first order of business was lunch, and I had this local staple in mind – the Bæjarins Beztu hot dog stand. I had read from several sources that this is a must-try Icelandic snack/meal, and it really did hit the spot. Just FYI, they’re meant to be eaten with everything on it – mustard, ketchup, onions, fried onions, and remoulade – but I admit to skipping the mayonnaise-based sauce and ketchup. It was still delicious!

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    We wandered the city center streets for the rest of the day – it’s a very walkable city with lots of little shops and restaurants in close proximity. I also found several interesting doors for my door photo collection.

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    Of course, we spent some time photographing some of the most recognizable sites in Reykjavik. We walked along the harbor to see the Sun Voyager sculpture which I initially thought was inspired by a Viking ship, but some further research corrected me – the sculpture symbolizes a boat in search of undiscovered territory, hope, progress and freedom.

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    We also visited the Hallgrímskirkja church where we paid a fee (700 kr each; about $6 USD) and took an elevator to the top of the tower for a fantastic 360-degree view of the city. It’s where I photographed the first photo in this post. See those windows at the top of the tower? You can poke your camera through there on all sides for photos of the city center and the harbor. (Note: there is a short staircase to climb after the elevator lets out.) We didn’t get to go inside the church itself because there was a service in progress, but the photos I’ve seen are stunning so if you’re planning to visit maybe just double-check the schedule.

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    Our day wrapped up at the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center, also situated along the harbor. The iconic building was not only an interesting subject for photography and an excellent way to escape the rain, but we decided to see a show called How to Become Icelandic in 60 Minutes so that we could truly experience a bit more of the Harpa. I bought tickets online in advance, so it’s one of the things I had to reschedule because of our canceled flight, but luckily the Harpa Center was gracious enough to allow us to switch dates. The interactive one-man comedy show includes quite a bit of Icelandic history that caters to a tourist-based audience. Chris and I had a few good laughs and learned some fun facts about Iceland including how to pronounce Eyjafjallajökull, which I had been practicing for several weeks before we arrived. I’m happy to say I was really close to having it down pat! The show currently has a schedule posted through the rest of this year, so if you’re visiting I highly recommend it as a fun way to learn about Iceland and see the Harpa at the same time. And again, not a bad way to spend some time indoors when the weather isn’t your favorite.

    As for the building itself, the intricate kaleidoscopic design reflects the pattern of the basalt columns found in Iceland – a geological phenomenon created as a result of volcanic activity. Chris and I saw some of them on a beach south of Vík, so I’ll be posting about that soon!

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    We noticed several museums in town that looked interesting, but we ran out of time after seeing the classic Reykjavik sites. Our original schedule had us spending an additional day in Reykjavik at the end of our road trip, but we lost that day after our first flight was canceled. We’ll just have to go back another time! There is plenty more to see and do, and I would definitely love to visit again. Also? I just realized we didn’t take very many pictures of us on this first day – on top of looking jet-lagged and red-eyed, the wind and rain did quite a number on my hair so I think I mostly avoided the camera. I’ll talk more about this in a post on packing for Iceland, but for the rest of the week I relied heavily on hats! For documentation purposes, here is the one photo we took of us in Reykjavik:

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    Up next: our whirlwind Ring Road trip kicks off with The Golden Circle where we saw geysers, waterfalls, and geothermal activity!

  • Our Iceland Adventure Begins!

    Our Iceland Adventure Begins!

    Eee! Chris and I just got home last night, and I’m so excited to finally be able to start posting about our Iceland adventure! I’ve been planning this trip for an entire year, and it was going to be epic – a road trip around the entire country with side trips to various sites and activities including snowmobiling, hiking, horseback riding, and going inside a volcano! But first, I need to start by telling you how our trip started – with a canceled flight and an impending volcano eruption. Here’s how that went.

    We were scheduled to leave on a Friday night at 8:40pm from Washington-Dulles, but while we were at the gate, our flight kept getting delayed again and again. We knew something major was up when they started handing out bottles of water. Finally, after several hours past our initial departure time, Icelandair announced that our plane was experiencing some mechanical issues and that the flight was canceled. (It turns out one of the wing flaps needed replacement and it was not available locally so they had to order the part.) They rescheduled us for Saturday night at the same time. I was concerned about rearranging all of our hotels and scheduled activities, but we were in good spirits because at least we were still going to Iceland! That, and we were thankful we didn’t fly on a plane with mechanical issues. So we waited for our luggage to arrive at Baggage Claim (saddest airport trip ever) and schlepped all of our stuff back home around Midnight. I made some phone calls and sent some emails to shift and shorten our schedule by a day, and we went to sleep at 1am with the comfort of knowing we’d try again the next day.

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    However, we woke up to news of the aviation code being raised to the highest level, Code Red, due to the impending eruption of a volcano in Iceland, and I started to worry that we wouldn’t actually be able to leave at all. I’ll be honest – I kept it together during the first issue with our flight being canceled, but when our trip was threatened a second time I did break down for a few teary minutes. We have had more than our fair share of weather-related troubles with our travels (hurricanes and tropical storms mostly) and other disasters (broken collarbones and Norovirus outbreaks), and I’m normally quite good about staying upbeat and positive. I was tired though, and more excited about this trip than ever so it was a bit stressful.

    Throughout the day our flight remained scheduled and on-time though, so we just crossed our fingers and hoped for the best. It turns out that it was a false alarm and the volcano hadn’t erupted yet. It actually ended up erupting while we were there, but not enough to cause any issues for us. We felt like we were in the movie Groundhog Day when we took a taxi back to Washington-Dulles, checked our bags and went through security all over again, but everything went smoothly and we actually boarded our plane this time!

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    We had a nice, uneventful red-eye flight on a half-empty plane (so we had an extra middle seat between us – bonus!) and just after 6am Iceland-time we touched down on Sunday morning. Yay! After such a rocky start to the trip, we couldn’t have been more excited and relieved to land safely in Iceland. Over the next several blog posts, I’ll break down our Ring Road trip day-by-day, as well as a few posts dedicated to accommodations, food, packing lists, general logistics, and tips (a.k.a., lessons we learned the hard way). So stay tuned for a slew of Iceland photos and stories!

  • Top 10 Reasons We’re Traveling To Iceland

    Top 10 Reasons We’re Traveling To Iceland

    For some reason when Chris and I mention that we are going to Iceland, we often get the reaction, “Really?! Why Iceland? What’s there?” And my answer is an excited, “Evvveryyything!” Usually accompanied by a bit of jumping up and down.

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    Here are the top 10 reasons why we’re going to Iceland (please forgive the excessive use of exclamation points – I went back through and removed a few):

    1. Iceland is a photographer’s playground and paradise. The stunning views and varied landscapes I’ve previewed online and in books/magazines are beckoning me to bring my wide-angle lenses and go to town. Or to outside-of-town, as we will.
    2. It’s one of the adventure capitals of the world. Snowmobiling, scuba diving, mountain biking, and hiking with some of the most amazing scenery in the world. So this is right up our alley!
    3. It’s only a six hour flight from DC. Did you know that Iceland is the closest European country to the U.S.? I have plenty of must-see places in far reaching corners of the world, but I’m always happy to have a short, direct flight to somewhere new.
    4. The Ring Road consistently shows up on lists of the best road trips in the entire world. We are super excited to make this 800+ mile trek around the country with tons of adventures planned along the way. And I love the fact that we can pull over any time we want to explore and take photos.
    5. So many epic movies and television shows are filmed there, we just had to see it in person. Some of the on-location films and shows include Batman Begins, Die Another Day, Prometheus, Game of Thrones, and my new favorite, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. I was so excited when that movie came out because I had already spent so much time planning and booking this trip, and seeing it made me even more excited to go.
    6. Glaciers! Iceland has Europe’s largest glacier, and I’m just fascinated with them. We’re going to hike on one and snowmobile on another to get the full glacier experience.
    7. Geysers! The original geyser for which all other geysers are named is just outside of Reykjavik and can be seen as part of the famous Golden Circle route.
    8. Volcanoes! Thrihnukagigur is currently the world’s only volcano in which you can enter the magma chamber. The volcano has been asleep for 4,000 years, so we’re going to give it a whirl with fingers crossed that it stays dormant for another season, or at least while tour groups are inside.
    9. Wildlife such as whales, puffins, lots of other bird species, reindeer, and Icelandic horses. We’ve already had an absolutely amazing whale-watching experience, and we probably won’t get to see a puffin since their nesting season was earlier in the year, but we will definitely see Icelandic horses since we’re going horseback riding.
    10. We seem to have a thing for islands, so we figured we might as well see this one!

    And a bonus item: the Northern Lights. Unfortunately we won’t be there during the best time of year to see the Aurora Borealis because we wanted to drive the Ring Road with as few weather-related issues as possible (so that means not in the snowy/icy winter), but Iceland is one of the best places to view this beautiful phenomenon.

    P. S. I recently saw someone mention on a certain social media site (rhymes with “Shmacebook”) that they wish people would stop posting Top 10 lists. I love making lists! And ten items seems like such a nice, natural number. So I hope you, dear readers, don’t mind yet another Top 10 list out there.

  • Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    Hotels vs. Private Rentals

    People often ask me why Chris and I stay in a rental villa/condo on some of our travels instead of a hotel, and if it’s much more expensive. We’ve done vacation rentals about a dozen times now in the last couple of years and the answer is that sometimes it makes more sense for us depending on the location and our plans, and no, it’s not necessarily more expensive! It probably just looks super fancypants when you see pictures of an amazing view or a pool with no one else in it, but I promise we’re not paying crazy prices or using any secret magic tricks. Well, I use some tricks to find good places, but I’ll share those with you.

    For anyone who isn’t familiar with Chris and me, we are thirty-somethings who travel a handful of times throughout the year (about 5-6 times in addition to traveling to see family) and our travel budget is in the middle of the road when it comes to accommodations. The short answer is that we really enjoy staying in rental properties for beach and snow vacations, but in this post I’ll break down our process on the when, why and how.

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    When and Why Do We Rent?

    For some trips, especially when the purpose is to unwind, we’ve found that we’re able to relax more when we have some space to ourselves instead of sharing common areas with strangers. I do love people-watching, but sometimes you want chill time by the pool, and other people want to yell and scream and “caaaaannonball” into the pool. At a rental villa, we’re able to control the vibe of our surroundings a little better – we can hang out poolside with our own tunes playing (I absolutely love the Jawbone Jambox for this), or have peace and quiet for reading and relaxing. I’m guessing the rental villa option might be nice for families, too, since you can let the kids be kids without worrying that they’re bothering anyone. Even Chris and I enjoy cannonballing guilt-free without disrupting anyone else. And speaking of disruptions, we’ve never encountered any construction noise while renting a private vacation home, but hotels seem to have renovations going on frequently and it’s harder to avoid the noise.

    Staying in a rental home also immerses us a bit more into local culture since we come and go from a residence in a neighborhood, rather than from a cluster of hotels. I love the feeling of living somewhere new even if it’s only for a week, and it’s fun to pretend that the rental is your own home.

    In addition to beach houses, Chris and I like renting condos for our ski trips since rentals usually get us closer to the lifts with great ski-in/ski-out access. Plus, we have so much stuff with us when we snowboard/ski that it’s nice to be able to spread out and have the extra storage space for coats, boots, and gear. No matter the location or rental type (ski condo, beach villa, etc.) you get a lot more space per dollar when you rent a vacation home instead of a hotel room.

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    On the other hand, if we only need a place to sleep (and not really to hang out), or if we’re going somewhere for a week or more but staying in multiple cities, we stay in hotels. And most vacation rentals have a minimum number of nights per stay, so sometimes a hotel is necessary for a shorter getaway. Hotels definitely have their place in our travels. For us it really just depends on the trip, and I do enjoy certain aspects of hotel stays. It’s so wonderful to have someone make the bed and replace the towels, and who doesn’t love a chocolate on their pillow at night? I also love finding boutique hotels and inns with interesting details. I stayed at a hotel once that included a yellow rubber ducky in each of the bathrooms (21C Hotel pictured below on the left). How fun is that? On our trip to Iceland this summer we’re staying in five different towns and I’m excited about some of the cute little Icelandic hotels where we’ll be staying.

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    How Much Does Renting Cost?

    Here’s the big secret that isn’t a secret: staying in a vacation rental isn’t more expensive than staying at a hotel and sometimes it’s even more cost effective. Just to clarify though, I’m not comparing the costs of our rentals to a hostel or a budget motel. I’m comparing our costs to a nice hotel in the three- or maybe four-star range, but there is a huge selection in rental properties to accommodate almost all budgets. It’s going to be more expensive than a hostel or budget hotel stay though, and some amenities like a pool do increase the cost per night.

    When you first look at the weekly cost of a rental, it might appear more expensive than a hotel room in some cases. However, you have to factor in a few things first to compare apples to apples. The final cost of a hotel room per night always incurs taxes and fees, and then you also have to figure in the cost of parking, internet access, eating most meals out/ordering room service, and amenities like laundry service if needed. The rental doesn’t usually have any hidden fees, but you’ll most likely need to pay sales tax, and a security deposit or cleaning fee (usually refundable if you don’t trash the place).

    We get a lot more bang for our buck in a rental, especially when it comes to things like view, amenities, and square footage. Chris and I always go grocery shopping when we stay in a rental so that we can eat breakfasts and lunches “at home,” which saves a considerable amount of money. We’re able to do our own laundry as well. Plus, I usually look for a rental that is just slightly outside of peak season/in-season, in what is sometimes called the shoulder season, low season or off-season. The rates are often dramatically lower, and as a bonus, it’s usually the perfect combination of fewer crowds and good weather. (Note: I’ve also tried renting well into low season, but there are sometimes drawbacks to looking too far into the off-season. It’s “off” for a reason! The weather could be less than ideal or even problematic, like hurricane season in the Caribbean which we definitely have encountered.)

    Also, if you are able to share a rental with another family, couple or group, obviously the price per square foot is even better assuming you rent an appropriate sized property. It’s usually easy to find rentals that accommodate anywhere from two to twenty people or more.

    Full disclosure: a couple of times we have been lucky to score some great deals. One time we rented a villa in St. John two days in advance because our Outer Banks vacation had been thwarted by Hurricane Irene so I found a villa with a good last-minute deal. And on our most recent trip to Grand Cayman, we ended up in a bigger, nicer villa because the one I originally booked was sold before our trip and the new owners decided to live there year-round. That actually happened two times in the process! Apparently this was an extremely rare and crazy occurrence, so our awesome booking agent offered an upgrade at the same price we had already paid. It was just luck that I had been working through a rental company that time instead of directly with the owner like I usually do. So we did save some money on those two trips. We’ve also gotten in early on rentals that have recently come onto the market and aren’t yet charging their full potential. A couple of places have increased to a price range out of our budget after we’ve stayed there!

    Now, when you factor in the cost of transportation we might be on different pages. I can’t stand the thought of going to a new place and not being able to go see the furthest corner of the country/island/state if I so desire. I will want a rental car no matter where I’m staying, so for us a car is always in our costs and is therefore a break-even in the hotel vs. rental equation. A hotel is more likely to be in a location that is walking distance or a short cab ride to restaurants and shops. They may even have a free shuttle. In a vacation rental, you most likely need to have your own car to get around.

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    How Do We Find Rentals?

    I have several favorite sites to search for rentals including FlipKey, VRBO and HomeAway. I have also used Luxury Retreats (which sounds expensive and it can be, but they do have some smaller, less expensive rentals), and for our trip to Grand Cayman I used Grand Cayman Villas which I found during an online search for Cayman rentals. There are so many other sites, but these are the ones I’ve used.

    I do a ton of research to find the perfect home. Often it gets to the point where I could probably get a job as a real estate agent for the area. Who has that kind of time though, right?! Well, I usually start early, as much as a year or so in advance and the research is fun for me so it’s practically a hobby. To narrow down the listings I just use the website’s filters (price, amenities, location, etc.) and I read the reviews for any red flags. I also search to see if anyone has blogged about their stay at a certain rental, or posted about it on any travel forums. Photos from regular travelers rather than professional photos are often a huge help to see what the place actually looks like without Photoshop. I also search to see if the rental has its own site – often times they do, and there may be more information and/or better photos.

    Once I have a few places narrowed down, I put on my stalker detective hat and try to find each house on Google maps to see what the general location is like. Sometimes this takes some super-sleuthing since the exact address usually isn’t posted, but the general area is, and then I use some clues in the photos to figure out which house it is on the map – roof color, pool shape, and view. The map will tell me things like, how close are the neighbors? Are there restaurants/stores nearby? Is there anything potentially noisy in the area? What will the lighting be like throughout the day? (That last one might be a photographer thing, but seeing what direction the home faces might also tell you if the pool will be in the shade all day, or if you have a good chance of seeing some beautiful sunsets!)

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    Once we find a rental we like, it’s just a matter of booking which usually involves reviewing/signing a contract, paying a deposit (anywhere from 25-50% of the total fee), and sometimes paying a refundable damage deposit. Those three main search sites have an online payment feature that I prefer to use, but if the owner doesn’t offer booking through the site, I always try to pay with a credit card to have a little extra protection if something goes belly up. So far so good, but I’ll report back here if anything sour ever happens! We have two trips booked next year with rentals, and I’m always excited to see how it turns out (i.e., how good I did at finding the perfect place). I’ve also booked through full service villa rental companies, Luxury Retreats and Grand Cayman Villas, where the concierge/agent handles the payments and contracts for you. They can also help with the research if you need assistance finding the perfect rental for your needs.

    So what do you think? Have you ever stayed in a vacation rental? What’s your preference? If you need any help getting started on your search, let me know and I’ll be happy to assist! (Disclaimer: Unless like, hundreds of people take me up on this offer.)

    Update 11/9/2015: I’ve now added Airbnb to my travel tool belt! You can read about our Toronto and Edinburgh Airbnb experiences here.

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  • England 2003

    England 2003

    As promised, I’ve finally gotten around to scanning a few film prints from my travels to England in 2003! This trip was incredibly special for so many reasons. It was my first time going anywhere in Europe, and I was visiting my parents who had moved to Lytham St Annes (near Blackpool) for my mom’s job. They were both excellent hosts, and made touring the country really fun and easy. The trip didn’t start out easy though – the day before I was scheduled to leave, I received notice that my flight was cancelled due to incoming Hurricane Isabel. I called the airline to ask about my options, and they informed me that they had one seat available on that evening’s flight and that it was mine if I wanted it! Great! Only…the flight was leaving in just under three hours. Oh, and I was at work, in Rockville, Maryland, which is at least a 45-minute drive from where I was living at the time. AND I hadn’t packed yet! So if you do the math, three hours minus the commute time, minus the required be-at-the-airport-two-hours-before-your-international-flight time, that left me less than 15 minutes to pack a suitcase for a week abroad. What I didn’t account for was how crazy the security lines would be at Dulles International Airport since everyone else had the same plan to get out of Dodge Virginia before the hurricane hit. Somehow I managed to throw a bag together and get a taxi to the airport in time, and thanks to the kindness of strangers who let me jump to the head of the security line, I just barely made my flight! And thanks certainly also go to my super sweet co-workers at the time who encouraged me to drop everything, covered the remainder of the day’s responsibilities for me, and allowed me to go, go, go. I’ll never forget how crazy that day was – that is not my preferred method of travel (I’m an obsessive planner), but it’s nice to know I can be super spontaneous, too!

    Once I arrived in England, my parents ensured that I saw an amazing sampling of the entire country. My mom and I took a fantastic side-trip via train to London for a few days where we saw just about every major must-see including Mamma Mia at Prince Edwards Theatre, my dad drove me all over the beautiful countryside to various castles and towns during the week, and we all took an overnight trip to Newcastle upon Tyne and went up to see Alnwick Castle, where parts of the first two Harry Potter movies were filmed! We even drove across the border into Scotland, so technically I’ve been there, too. (Chris and I are actually planning a proper visit to Scotland next year.) There’s still more I’d like to see in England so I’ll definitely go again someday, but I’m grateful I was able to see so much during this visit.

    Note: there aren’t many people-photos on this trip! At the time, I was really just into photographing scenery and details. I did snap a photo of my dad at Alnwick and I wish I had taken more photos of my parents and I together. I guess we’ll all just have to go back! Also, I used to be into scrapbooking and several of my photos ended up sliced-and-diced for the scrapbook pages, so I included a scan of my London two-page spread just for fun.

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